Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dude you dont need 750rwhp in a GTR to run a 10.50 or faster, where do you get your information from?

You can do it will less than 600rwhp

re: crank

Its not so much the outright RPM... its a combination or RPM and Load, my bet, the motor dies

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

to make a thousand horses you just need a thousand shot of nos.. :O

Or build a full jun or hks stroker bottem end. Two T04z's or a big 1200roller bearing turbo, some decent headwork and everything else to support... Should be rite.

Dude you dont need 750rwhp in a GTR to run a 10.50 or faster, where do you get your information from?

You can do it will less than 600rwhp

re: crank

Its not so much the outright RPM... its a combination or RPM and Load, my bet, the motor dies

i reacon i could do it with less that 600rwhp aswell. i dont need that much power to run the times i want but i want power, and i can safely say that i know a whole heap about wat im getting myself into because everything im doing has been done with alot of thought, expert advice and alot of hard earned money. i'v run 11.7 @ 118mph with only 360hp on a real crap ass tune on 1 bar with 2530's full weight with 2 amps and a sub box in the boot, that day i wasnt even meant to run it but i did purely for the fact that my mate had a spare helmet, i was there and felt like racing. this car isn't a designated drag car its a "STREET" car but i would like it to run fast on the track. the engine WILL go cactus, but wen that happens i will get a billet crank.

so will my standard crank handle 10,000 rpm.

So much money, so much foolishness. I agree with nxtime and probably everyone else who reads this. 10,000 on a standard RB26 crank...go aftermarket and save yourself the pain.

Dude you dont need 750rwhp in a GTR to run a 10.50 or faster, where do you get your information from?

You can do it will less than 600rwhp

re: crank

Its not so much the outright RPM... its a combination or RPM and Load, my bet, the motor dies

414awkw 26psi (C16) will net you a 10.3*...we did it and im a crappy driver....we only used 34psi 467awkw for dyno queen comps.

I've just bought a complete Trust T88-38GK kit for my R33,stock crank,Tomei rods,Arias pistons,Jun oil pump,Tomei head gasket,Ross balancer etc.

Should be going in a week or 2,will post up results in RB26DETT section.

Previously made 370rwkw with HKS 2530's on 100% standard internals from the head down.

I will only rev the motor to 9200rpm,hoping crank will be OK.

i wouldnt worry about the crank id be more worryd about the block r26 blocks are nortorius for cracking or spliting bores

yes someone with sense, with the standard 86mm bore i only took it to 86.5mm and in an attempt to make it stronger i got the block cryogenically frozen but ppl say that all that has done is make it weaker but ye the info i got from the mob who do it they say it makes it stronger and i also got the crank cyoe'd aswell as a precaution.

I've just bought a complete Trust T88-38GK kit for my R33,stock crank,Tomei rods,Arias pistons,Jun oil pump,Tomei head gasket,Ross balancer etc.

Should be going in a week or 2,will post up results in RB26DETT section.

Previously made 370rwkw with HKS 2530's on 100% standard internals from the head down.

I will only rev the motor to 9200rpm,hoping crank will be OK.

sweet man that sounds nuts, when will it be up and running let us know how u go, mine should be ready to go within the nxt couple of weeks il post my results, after the run in, another question 4 u guys. everyone has their own theories, some ppl say to run the engine in lightly with oil changes every 500 upto 1500km, some ppl say jst load it up on the dyno on and off until fumes stop coming out the breathers and then dump the oil and go for it. from various experiences we load the cars up only a little bit on the dyno until the breathers are clear and then go for 500km, dump the oil, go for 1000km then dump that lot but during that 1500 driving to only 4000-4500rpm and little if no boost at all, then after that put in the synthetic and go 4 it, and that so far has proved to be very effective with every engine we'v built, wat do u guys reacon from personal experiences is the best was to "run in" a new engine. personally i think the way i explained has proven to be the best i thought id add it in so others could benifit from the 100% effective advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...