Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

like the title says, im looking for a few parts:

Suspension

Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit

Lower Control Arm & Ball Joint

Caster Rod

Castor Rod Bracket

Stub Axle

Stub Axle Upper Support

Sway Bar "U" Bracket

Sway Bar End Link

Outer Tie Rod End

Rack End

General

Guard Liner

Front Bumper Cover

LHS Headlamp

Guard

Guard Liner

LHS Mud Flap

Radiator Support

Air Cond. Condenser

Guard Bracket

Radiator

any help would be great. cheers

Edited by nisskid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132803-anyone-wrecking-a-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

got passanger gard (gun grey, same as yours) head light, indercator an mud flap for $250 or make an offer

front bumper cover ???????? got a couple of stock front bars as well might be able to help with that one as well just pm

gday a mate of mine has everything you need he has a written off 4 door gtst minus engine and gearbox he would just prefer to sell it as a wreck though how much exactly are you looking at spending?? he might sell the parts seperately though i can let you know by friday though

cheers Paul.

got passanger gard (gun grey, same as yours) head light, indercator an mud flap for $250 or make an offer

front bumper cover ???????? got a couple of stock front bars as well might be able to help with that one as well just pm

hey 4dirty2 that green gemini in your sig does that belong to a kimberly????

well i have had a few quotes on the all the parts, i wouldt want to go any higher than 1000 for all the parts depending on the general condition. im going on what wreckers have quoted me for good condition/re-condition parts.

i could do an individual rough figure for each part if that would help?

well i have had a few quotes on the all the parts, i wouldt want to go any higher than 1000 for all the parts depending on the general condition. im going on what wreckers have quoted me for good condition/re-condition parts.

i could do an individual rough figure for each part if that would help?

yeah a rough figure would be good i've told him to come on here tonight and join up so he'll be able to let you know but he said he'd be happy with roughly a grand and basically has a whole gtst 4 door type m sitting there without an engine or gearbox just the front passenger door is crushed in everything else is good and if he doesnt get on here tonight for some reason i'll pm you his phone number

cheers Paul

on the same topic....

anyone have a good condition dash?

Mine has three splits in it.. and I want a replacement. vents not needed but would be handy.

yeah might be able to help you out with this aswell john lol its in good perfect condition from memory i'll get him to get back to you though

cheers Paul

Suspension

Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit 103

Lower Control Arm & Ball Joint 53

Caster Rod 44

Castor Rod Bracket 26

Stub Axle 56

Stub Axle Upper Support 26

Sway Bar "U" Bracket 3

Sway Bar End Link 15

Outer Tie Rod End 15

Rack End 44

Total 368

General

Guard Liner 15

Front Bumper Cover 71

LHS Headlamp 59

Guard 85

Guard Liner 15

LHS Mud Flap 9

Radiator Support 103

Air Cond. Condenser 71

Guard Bracket 17

Radiator 71

Total 497

these are just some prices ive put together with help from quotes i got from wreckers.

got a dash here as well. dont now wats the goin price on one can any one help

yeh its kimothyz car. how u now her

i painted that gemini for it's last owner fair cheap , came out ok for a gemi i suppose

CHris,,,

got a dash here as well. dont now wats the goin price on one can any one help

yeh its kimothyz car. how u now her

she's one of my mates little sisters friends and she's from blackwood aswell i know or know of most people in blackwood and nisskid im still waiting for my mate to call me back

Paul.

i painted that gemini for it's last owner fair cheap , came out ok for a gemi i suppose

CHris,,,

not to bad at all

she's one of my mates little sisters friends and she's from blackwood aswell i know or know of most people in blackwood and nisskid im still waiting for my mate to call me back

Paul.

yeh she told me today kimz older broz friend.

yeh uv rpob seen me an other mates up in blacky hang at skaty sum times or with the old st johns guys

yeah dude i dont really remember you from skatepark but i remember when i saw boco at dominoes i was with james angrave, and my mate daves joining sau either tonight or tomorrow sorry bout the waiting

Cheers Paul.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...