Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Freight A Bonnet Interstate Cheaply?

enoch25

By enoch25,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

saff_cossie Grand Master

saff_cossie

Posted
Posted

As others have said, insure it. Bonnets in my experience are the most notorious for getting damaged. Its not Carbon Fibre is it?

Bus Freight as Shan says is very good from what I have heard but size could be the limiter.

Let us know how you get on though, would be useful.

enoch25 Explorer

enoch25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Been calling around and getting quotes. TOLL gave me the run around. Transferred me about 5 times and then told me they don't do private services. Many services don't transport car bonnets. The ones that do charge way too much (one quoted $369). The best quote so far (around $100) belongs to AirRoadDirect. They provide $1000 transit warranty without the need of any insurance. Will give them a go and get back to you guys. Thanks for the help.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

Hi mate,

Im in the transport industry. (actually do a lot of work for Toll). The price you got for $100 is about as good as it gets.

For infos sake, the safest way would be to use a furniture removalist. Will cost about $50 to $100 more from QLD but it will be picked up by two guys, wrapped in felt padding, loaded onto truck and delivered to your door. It wont be handled numerous times from trucks to depots, to storage, to another truck and then delivered.

Also get some clarification on this "transit warranty". I will sadly say that this term along with "transit insurance" is commonly used to mislead the one off public customer in the hope that nothing happens.

99.9% of the time "transit warranty/insurance" only covers what is known in the industry as FOC...Fire, overturning or collision. So if the truck didnt catch on fire, overturn or have a collision then bad luck.

Find out if it covers damage from handling, or just not being loaded correctly, or if something else on the truck falls and slams into your bonnet. And get them to give it to you in writing.

If they say yes it will cover it, then ask what the excess is to make a claim. A lot of companies will have exhorbitant fees to make an insurance claim which usually costs more than the total of the freight and value of the item so most people will just go away.

At the end of the day, from my experience (7 years) the average is over 90% of freight getting there in one piece. But some items are more prone to damage than others, like a bonnet. You would be wise to send the seller another few dollars to take the time to carefully wrap it up securely, particularly the corners. Oh, and you would think its obvious but make sure the senders details (you) are plastered all over it in nice thick black texta, not a ball point pen.

enoch25 Explorer

enoch25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks FATGTS-R. Good advise. Just talked to the people from AirRoadDirect. Their transit warranty sounds legit so far. Covers handling damage, no excess required etc. Will check their website as they say it's all written there.

Coupe-This Grand Master

Coupe-This

Posted
Posted

hehe i had a bonnet shipped from nsw to melbourne ... for 40 bux, would of been the same price from qld as well ...

know some one in the industry, thats where its at :O

give simon national carriers a call ...

85459400

it will be cheaper if u can pick up the item from the depot ... but they will deliver it to where ever you want it

  • 4 weeks later...
enoch25 Explorer

enoch25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hehe i had a bonnet shipped from nsw to melbourne ... for 40 bux, would of been the same price from qld as well ...

know some one in the industry, thats where its at :)

give simon national carriers a call ...

85459400

it will be cheaper if u can pick up the item from the depot ... but they will deliver it to where ever you want it

Finally got around to updating this thread. I did call simon from national carriers. Got a quote of eighty and that is without any insurance. So, I went with AirRoadDirect. Did the order online and paid only seventy seven dollars. It has the $1000 dollars transit warranty too. Got my bonnet within 4 days from Brisbane. No fuss, no damage. Didn't need to talk to anyone since the online order. So, I thoroughly recommend it. Website: www.airroaddirect.com

Kaz200 Grand Master

Kaz200

Posted
Posted
Also get some clarification on this "transit warranty". I will sadly say that this term along with "transit insurance" is commonly used to mislead the one off public customer in the hope that nothing happens.

99.9% of the time "transit warranty/insurance" only covers what is known in the industry as FOC...Fire, overturning or collision. So if the truck didnt catch on fire, overturn or have a collision then bad luck.

Find out if it covers damage from handling, or just not being loaded correctly, or if something else on the truck falls and slams into your bonnet. And get them to give it to you in writing.

Bugger, if only I'd read this a month ago.. had to organise transport from QLD urgently last week, got it sorted, got it sent in a cheap backload and paid for insurance but didn't look into the finer details, thought it covered everything. A couple of things are damaged and I think this might be the case for us as the truck didn't collide etc, looks like the damage might not be covered... they just didn't take much care unfortunately. See what happens I guess :)

Also I thought it would only be on the truck for 3 days.. but they took the items out, put them on a train and then back on another truck in melb.. they used to just drive down.

enoch25 Explorer

enoch25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
any ideas how much it wud be for 2 gtst wings sent from melb to syd?

Wouldn't be too much. Just check the airroaddirect website and get a quote from them. It's all automated. You'll get the quote there and then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...