Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Freight A Bonnet Interstate Cheaply?


Recommended Posts

As others have said, insure it. Bonnets in my experience are the most notorious for getting damaged. Its not Carbon Fibre is it?

Bus Freight as Shan says is very good from what I have heard but size could be the limiter.

Let us know how you get on though, would be useful.

Been calling around and getting quotes. TOLL gave me the run around. Transferred me about 5 times and then told me they don't do private services. Many services don't transport car bonnets. The ones that do charge way too much (one quoted $369). The best quote so far (around $100) belongs to AirRoadDirect. They provide $1000 transit warranty without the need of any insurance. Will give them a go and get back to you guys. Thanks for the help.

Hi mate,

Im in the transport industry. (actually do a lot of work for Toll). The price you got for $100 is about as good as it gets.

For infos sake, the safest way would be to use a furniture removalist. Will cost about $50 to $100 more from QLD but it will be picked up by two guys, wrapped in felt padding, loaded onto truck and delivered to your door. It wont be handled numerous times from trucks to depots, to storage, to another truck and then delivered.

Also get some clarification on this "transit warranty". I will sadly say that this term along with "transit insurance" is commonly used to mislead the one off public customer in the hope that nothing happens.

99.9% of the time "transit warranty/insurance" only covers what is known in the industry as FOC...Fire, overturning or collision. So if the truck didnt catch on fire, overturn or have a collision then bad luck.

Find out if it covers damage from handling, or just not being loaded correctly, or if something else on the truck falls and slams into your bonnet. And get them to give it to you in writing.

If they say yes it will cover it, then ask what the excess is to make a claim. A lot of companies will have exhorbitant fees to make an insurance claim which usually costs more than the total of the freight and value of the item so most people will just go away.

At the end of the day, from my experience (7 years) the average is over 90% of freight getting there in one piece. But some items are more prone to damage than others, like a bonnet. You would be wise to send the seller another few dollars to take the time to carefully wrap it up securely, particularly the corners. Oh, and you would think its obvious but make sure the senders details (you) are plastered all over it in nice thick black texta, not a ball point pen.

Thanks FATGTS-R. Good advise. Just talked to the people from AirRoadDirect. Their transit warranty sounds legit so far. Covers handling damage, no excess required etc. Will check their website as they say it's all written there.

hehe i had a bonnet shipped from nsw to melbourne ... for 40 bux, would of been the same price from qld as well ...

know some one in the industry, thats where its at :O

give simon national carriers a call ...

85459400

it will be cheaper if u can pick up the item from the depot ... but they will deliver it to where ever you want it

  • 4 weeks later...
hehe i had a bonnet shipped from nsw to melbourne ... for 40 bux, would of been the same price from qld as well ...

know some one in the industry, thats where its at :)

give simon national carriers a call ...

85459400

it will be cheaper if u can pick up the item from the depot ... but they will deliver it to where ever you want it

Finally got around to updating this thread. I did call simon from national carriers. Got a quote of eighty and that is without any insurance. So, I went with AirRoadDirect. Did the order online and paid only seventy seven dollars. It has the $1000 dollars transit warranty too. Got my bonnet within 4 days from Brisbane. No fuss, no damage. Didn't need to talk to anyone since the online order. So, I thoroughly recommend it. Website: www.airroaddirect.com

Also get some clarification on this "transit warranty". I will sadly say that this term along with "transit insurance" is commonly used to mislead the one off public customer in the hope that nothing happens.

99.9% of the time "transit warranty/insurance" only covers what is known in the industry as FOC...Fire, overturning or collision. So if the truck didnt catch on fire, overturn or have a collision then bad luck.

Find out if it covers damage from handling, or just not being loaded correctly, or if something else on the truck falls and slams into your bonnet. And get them to give it to you in writing.

Bugger, if only I'd read this a month ago.. had to organise transport from QLD urgently last week, got it sorted, got it sent in a cheap backload and paid for insurance but didn't look into the finer details, thought it covered everything. A couple of things are damaged and I think this might be the case for us as the truck didn't collide etc, looks like the damage might not be covered... they just didn't take much care unfortunately. See what happens I guess :)

Also I thought it would only be on the truck for 3 days.. but they took the items out, put them on a train and then back on another truck in melb.. they used to just drive down.

any ideas how much it wud be for 2 gtst wings sent from melb to syd?

Wouldn't be too much. Just check the airroaddirect website and get a quote from them. It's all automated. You'll get the quote there and then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...