Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went to RE Customs today with me bro to see what power his Evolution TME was making. We were hoping for shooting for 160kw but ended up with the following. Not bad i guess, considering it hasnt been tuned.

2iy1.jpg

Boost: Standard (15-16 psi)

Mods: filter, exhaust

Tuned: No

1ov9.jpg

Other cars that were there:

Nice Chaser

3kw4.jpg

4go8.jpg

6ch3.jpg

5iv1.jpg

S15 Track Car:

7do4.jpg

Also i saw a familiar R34 GTT with a host of mods, owner uses it for track days ect?- i think ive seen him around on the forums. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133591-brothers-evo65-gets-dynoed/
Share on other sites

mmm TME :D

what other results were there?

There was a Mitsubishi GTO that pulled something like 204 at the wheels, a Stagea with 154kw at the wheels, another evo 6 with 152kw at the wheels and thats pretty much all i remember.

saff_cossie, what mods are you running?

There was a Mitsubishi GTO that pulled something like 204 at the wheels, a Stagea with 154kw at the wheels, another evo 6 with 152kw at the wheels and thats pretty much all i remember.

saff_cossie, what mods are you running?

what mods did the gto have? pretty stock?

That track car is rays - looks bloody mean as - wouldnt want to take on that thing on the track or drag!

The chaser was there when I went to get them to check some leakages in my engine bay - I swear that exhaust gives one of the most meanest rumbles i have ever heard - From memory - I think it has some very very big mods in the engine bay

That white r33 with the custom bar (400r bar?) - that looks soo awesome!!!

Lol - you go there any time of the week, and you are guaranteed to see atleast 1 gtr somewhere in the workshop.....

I have 2 mods on mine:

Carbon engine cover (reported to gain 10kw)

SAU Vic stickers (confirmed to add 30kw per sticker)

Nah, seriously, the above two are the only changes. Going to put some dump pipes on ultimately. My VII is supposed to be 205kw at the fly from factory.

Your brothers sounds a little low though as my mate had a VI in the UK which was knocking on 270bhp from factory.

I have 2 mods on mine:

Carbon engine cover (reported to gain 10kw)

SAU Vic stickers (confirmed to add 30kw per sticker)

Nah, seriously, the above two are the only changes. Going to put some dump pipes on ultimately. My VII is supposed to be 205kw at the fly from factory.

Your brothers sounds a little low though as my mate had a VI in the UK which was knocking on 270bhp from factory.

His brothers car probably just needs a good tune....

I want a ride in that chaser now!

Yeh my bro had the his exhaust bolted on the Friday night and the dyno run confirmed that there really is'nt that much difference. Hence maybe a good tune will give better results.

Dont know if its true, but Japanese model TME's apparently had more power. I read in Wheels/Speed mags when they were doing comparo's.

Still trying to figure out who was the dood with the R34 GTT was...

I want a ride in that chaser now!

Yeh my bro had the his exhaust bolted on the Friday night and the dyno run confirmed that there really is'nt that much difference. Hence maybe a good tune will give better results.

Dont know if its true, but Japanese model TME's apparently had more power. I read in Wheels/Speed mags when they were doing comparo's.

Still trying to figure out who was the dood with the R34 GTT was...

You meant the BLACK GT-T with stickers, R tires and big Wing? Thats Matt, an SAU VIC member, hardcore tracker as well, the car has show and go, from memory it made 280kw@rear.

You meant the BLACK GT-T with stickers, R tires and big Wing? Thats Matt, an SAU VIC member, hardcore tracker as well, the car has show and go, from memory it made 280kw@rear.

Thats him! Yeh i saw pics of his cars at track days and stuff. Big Brembo's, Suspension, Volk GTC's?, Wing, Tires... the lot.

Man for the ammount he spent, im sure he could have got a nice Vspec R34.

Thats him! Yeh i saw pics of his cars at track days and stuff. Big Brembo's, Suspension, Volk GTC's?, Wing, Tires... the lot.

Man for the ammount he spent, im sure he could have got a nice Vspec R34.

And then he would have spent that money all over again on a 34 V-spec... then he could have bought himself a 993 porka instead... it goes on and on :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...