Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Soo....

Can anyone run this engine number through FAST?

RB25704373X

And for giggles, run this VIN?

6U90000ER34040546

I know what I think it is, but I would love if anyone can confirm this for me.

Also: First post. Woohoo. If it all goes well you may very well all be reading some very newbie questions from me.

ER34 040546:

Build date August 2000, 25GT, 4-door, HICAS, Auto, 'Athlete Silver' paint, grey interior, 15" wheels (not sure about spec).

That's all I can give you without knowing Japanese...

>_<

I can't help you with the engine number, except to say if it's a non turbo then it's a good start. If it's listed on the build-plate then it's all good.

Please note that the correct thread to use is:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/VI...tml&st=1320

ER34 040546:

Build date August 2000, 25GT, 4-door, HICAS, Auto, 'Athlete Silver' paint, grey interior, 15" wheels (not sure about spec).

That's all I can give you without knowing Japanese...

>_<

I can't help you with the engine number, except to say if it's a non turbo then it's a good start. If it's listed on the build-plate then it's all good.

Thats what I suspected. The engine in the car is infact, a turbo. However - Don't know if it was an engine swap or a conversion. Everything else has checked out OK.. but wanted to know if it was an authentic turbo engine, or a well done conversion before I start playing with boost.

Given a quick lookover, my non-skyline brain didnt pick it up, but researching it online really shows that the car wasnt a turbo when it rolled from the factory. But trying to confirm on the engine. Been able to confirm that the number on the block matches the number that is under the reg info for VicRoads - But not whether this is the engine that was in the car when it rolled out of the factory.

About the other thread: The guy sitting next to me at work posted there on my behalf too, the saga to find out WTF this car is has now taken over the office.

Edited by Kinkstaah

mmm I have one. Ran it through FAST when i bought it but the program has since been evicted by parental units, and im interested in dissecting the model code to find out if the car is a V spec or not. there are a few things that suggest that it is, but it wasnt old as one, ec.

So for the sake of curiosity, if we could -

BCNR33 041082.

Please =D

This is my baby of 18 months now. I'd love to know whatever fast can tell me about it (it's been repainted and converted to manual, but i don't know what options etc it had from factory)

Either a screenshot (isaac AT islade DOT com) or just post details here, i don't mind :D

6U9000ECR33009874

Thanks :D

  • 4 months later...
man howd did you get the program to work....i dl it and installed it but its not in the right language ...its like in characters n shit ....help us out man?

it's Japanese software...it's in Japanese...just like the labels in the cars, ID plates, etc.

I am guessing here but:

1) It wasn't designed to be used outside Japan.

2) The Euro version of the software in English won't decode "domestic" Japanese cars.

Time to start learning Kenji :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...