Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pulled that old dump pipe off tonight was going to chop and weld a bigger wastegate pipe on that was until i noticed the big crack forming around the wastegate pipe weld, i reckon i had about a week left before it blew itself off. moral of the story dont buy any hks copy dump pipes off ebay. i could still use it with some fresh welding and new pipe but the BATMBL is on its way . will see how that goes.

I have exactly the same problem R33 with a Greddy E-01 and a genie dump pipe. Even with the EBC off boost still creeps up to 10+ psi

I gave powerplay imports a call thinking it was the EBC causing the issue but they believed it was just a leak, told me to book it in and they shouldn't have any issues fixing it.

I havn't booked it in yet but will let you know how it goes when I do :)

I've got this kind of problem too. My dump gets swapped over tomorrow as the wastegate pipe on mine is cracked, nearly stalls too due to lack of back pressure when u give it a quick rev in neutral & when taking off. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

I've also got a ball & spring control valve so that may be the cause of it yet. Need to get a deacent EBC too.

Had the dump fitted today & the boost went into the stratosphere. Hit boost cut on only part throttle. Turned the boost adjuster down but still got to 13 pound.

Going to have to convert it back to the standard bleed valve tomorrow & see how it goes from there. It was worth noting though that the spiking has settled down which was kinda interesting. Have only driven it for about 20 kays so far (& only half of that once the boost was turned down), but it does seem smoother.

after cuttiing up my ebay pipe i cant see how it was flowing at all. the wastegate pipe was so restrictive were it plumbed back in it had a huge ridge for the gas to hit very poor quality all round dont buy them people they are 100% shit

Also what size fitting did you weld to the intercooler piping?

Might be slightly smaller than factory or when you welded it on there might be some restriction in it?

Maybe check and bore it out because if there is any restriction it would cause higher than standard boost!

If the new dump pipe doesnt fix it then you still got the same proble we do...

Tried dumping exhaust at end of dump pipe, did have a split wastegate on it and got rid of that and made a custom one, still no different.

Thought their was somthing wrong with the standard turbo, got a new hks one which came with hks actuator. Still creeps!

The hose to the actuator comes from the compressor housing, also tried from the plenum...

Well I fixed my boost creap. Reconnected the standard boost solonoid yesterday & now I get an absolute max of 9 pound when wringing it's neck. Much smoother, just not terribly torquey in the mid range with the dual stage boost setup. High mode conversion or EBC coming up for me. Unfortunantely it doesn't help you guys.

I take it you guys are running FMIC's as well? I've also got a friend with an S14 who's experiencing similar issues since he put a Trust front mount on his. His solution (though not really fixing the problem) was to fit a baffle in the exhaust to prevent the turbo spooling so hard. Sounds like a wastegate air flow issue to me too, what kind of RWKW's are you guys making?

Edited by JazzaR33

very interesting jazza i may have to get my hands on a standard solenoid i dont have one as the motor is in an s13 now, not sure on the the RWKWs it puts out havent gotten the SAFC tuned and dynoed yet but with the mods i have (see first post) i wouldnt be expecting much over 200 if that, oh yeah and i do have a FMIC too

I'll be surprised if it helps you to be honest. If you couldn't keep the boost down directly connecting the actuator without any boost controller, fitting the solonoid isn't going to do jack I'm sorry to say.

It really does sound to me like your wastegate just can't flow enough air. 200 RWKW doesn't sound too much, but then my friend is having similar issues on his S14 with a little less power. Similar size turbo too.

well the standard solenoid went on tonight went for a drive and well im just as suprised as everyone else will be it holds 7psi to 4500rpm clicks over and then only spikes to about 11psi then settles at about ten pound i still hit a small amout of rich and retard along the way i think due to the cams but still held ten all the way to 6500 rpm in third at full throttle. 2nd gear is abit more harsher and hits rich and retard with a spike of about 12 or 13 psi but keep in mind, i am running the stock dump pipe again, no spliter no bellmouth just the stocka i have the BATMBL on its way so hopefully it should clean up the rest of the small spike but either way it doesnt continually creep up like it used to

Yeah it won't creap with the stock dump, that thing is sooo restrictive.

My new dump is a BATMBL one also, but it's still not going higher than about 9 psi when I push it all the way to the limiter (2nd or 3rd gear). I'm only going by the stock gauge mind you, but the power delivery is much smoother without any spike what so ever by seat of the pants. I could always tell with the ball & spring controller if it spiked.

I don't have a FMIC like you either though so that could be the difference. Hopefully the new dump flows the wastegate better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...