Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People

I've read how to do this before on this forum but i now can't find it i was just wondering which way do i turn the camgear to get it advanced, is it clockwise or anti clockwise and the same for retarded???

Cheers

anthony

If you turn the inner section clockwise (ie rotate the cam clockwise without moving the timing belt) you will have advanced the cam timing. Inlet is same as exhaust. The camgears should have it marked on them....

I honestly don’t see the point in spending a shyte load of time degreeing in the cams perfectly. When all I am going to do is keep changing the cam timing on the dyno until I get the desired power result.

Sure if I am doing a single cam in block engine (like the Commondoor Cup engine last weekend) I will spend a great deal of time with the degree wheel and dial gauge getting the cam timing exactly to where it has proven to produce the most power previously. But that’s because I can’t change it all that easily on the dyno. Plus I know where it developed the best power before, and, since it’s a control engine spec, I know it will develop the most power again at the same cam timing.

But on DOHC engine where it takes minutes to change the cam timing on the dyno, I only see it a waste of my valuable time.

:ermm: cheers :O

I hear what your saying Gary.

But I like to know where Im starting from when advancing or retarding on the dyno. As you know factory marks could be a couple degrees either way. There's no real advantage like you say - but its piece of mind. I look at it as just one of those things that shouldnt be overlooked, like working out your comp ratio and piston to valve clearencesetc. But thats just me :-)

i got so mad results with

rb20det

retard exhaust by: 3

advance inlet by: 1

everyone too tight to share results

Thank's for the reply. it would be good to know what settings people are using and how much power they got out of the cam gears also did this setting bring boost on earlier or did it improve top end ???

Cheers

anthony

problem is - if your cams havent been degree'd in properly than me saying 2 degrees advanced or retarded made all the difference might not get the same result for someone else as there cams are in different positions on the factory marks.

So best thing to do in your situation is like Sydney Kid said - just play around on the dyno until the desired result is obtained.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...