Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have got my hands on the latest release from garrett.

i need a 25mm spacer between the turbo and the manifold,

and i need to fabricate a dump pipe but apart from that everything i had for the gt30 will plumb straight

in. I picked the .82 a/r so i will be very interesting to see the results.

here's a couple of pics. looks good

post-24852-1158053748.jpg

post-24852-1158053839.jpg

Edited by dangerman4
  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry

i just checked and my bad.

8mm is the dump flange bolts.

the t3 base bolts are 10mm.

and yes once it is spaced away from the manifold there is heaps of room.

i will start taking some progress pics when i get home from work.

Is this the internally gated T3 housing that Garrett have been promising all year, and part of last?

What is the used unit beside it? It appears to have a Garrett logo on the compressor housing too.

And most importantly, can you post up the CHRA ID tag number too please?

I'm going to be interested in the progress pics.

cheers

Is this the internally gated T3 housing that Garrett have been promising all year, and part of last?

What is the used unit beside it? It appears to have a Garrett logo on the compressor housing too.

And most importantly, can you post up the CHRA ID tag number too please?

I'm going to be interested in the progress pics.

cheers

Yes very interesting , hope they are available in quantity !

Dale the CHRA number would be the same for any cartridge with the same comp/turbine so its the complete assembly or unit number you want . Something worth noting is the part number stamped on the side of the exhaust housings mounting flange in the second shot . This would almost certainly be the turbine housings part number .

What I want to know is can these housings be grafted onto the GT37R cartridges because they have the potential to be better than the GT3540R cartridge for the larger/est RB - just need a suitable exhaust housing .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
Awesome news!!!!

Out of curiosity.... :(

Do they have a .63 internal gate gt3540?

Hi all , I got to look at a couple of these this afternoon - yep .63 and .82AR ratio .

The Garrett part numbers for the housings themselves (according to the packaging) is 771300-5 for the .82 and 771300-6 for the .63 .

The waste gate flat valve looks to be the same size as the IW GT28 housings and there is room for a larger disc as well . Doing a "high flow" on this valve is common practise on souped up XR6T's so no reason why these could not be modified the same way . BUT - always that but - the greater the area of the disc the more area exhaust manifold gasses under pressure have to work on to try and force it open . I kid you not and don't laugh , I've seen people using what looked like old bed springs trying to keep this valve shut .

The rule is if you run high boost pressure do everything you can to have the exhaust manifold pressure down somewhere near inlet manifold pressure . You don't need massive exhaust manifold pressure to drive the turbine just sufficient gas velocity by thermal expansion .

Back to those housings , Brett at GCG has I think five of each AR size ATM so be quick if you need one soon . Had I been better organised I would have had some pics but no doubt they'll turn up .

Cheers Adrian .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...