Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i hav now sort of finished putting a 33 box in my 32 the only problem i have is with the speedo... i got the nissan navara one with the part number off these forums.. but the speedo is reading higher by about 20kms at 100kms. so when i am doing 100kms. the speedo is roughly saying 120kms.. am i suposed to pull the cog off the r33 speedo drive and put it on the navara one? i dont think its right as the r33 cog is a fair bit larger than the one on the navara.. and if i were to put this cog on it would read even higher... i may be wrong tho... any help would b good...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134132-rb25-gearbox-into-r32/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah dude, get photos hey. Someone had them before but I think with all the forum changes over the years they have vanished somewhere. Even if its just a pic of the two cogs together, then changed over.

the only problem is that i think i am going to have to superglue it on or something.. the r33 one has a c clip holding it on and the navara one is either glued or pressed.. i am about do do it now. i will take pics n get back 2 u's...

ok i still havnt changed them yet but i have a new problem... i cant get my reverse lights to work!!!! i have tried changing plugs, everything!!! they either stay on for every gear or are not on at all!!! can some1 please help? what are the 2 sensors that come out of the box for? 1 is obviously for reverse but whats the other??

Edited by lwboosted

Could be similar to mine was, so it's 'reverse' in every gear except reverse itself.. Was yours an auto to begin with by any chance? I had to rig up a negative trigger relay to get mine all working ok, so it reversed the signal.

Out of the box - one is neutral sensor, the other is the reverse.

nah it has always been manual.. just changing to aa 25 box, 1 way i hook it up the light is on in every gear including reverse, but not in neutral, the other way it does not come on at all.... why does it need a neutral switch???

I'm thinking your reverse light might be similar to my boot light. Bear with me here. :O

I wanted a second light in my boot so I slipped a wire onto the positive terminal and the second I just earthed. The light worked. What I didn't realise is that it didn't turn off when I shut the boot.

I don't know what the concept is called but it's something like 'negative switched'. Basically if you use a normal earth the circuit will be complete but the switch is on the negative side of the thing you are powering up rather than the positive which is what I was expecting.

So (here comes the relevance) if you are earthing your reverse switch the wrong way the lights will always be on and if you think the wires are just back to front they will always be off. You need to find the right earth for that switch.

Now I wouldn't have a clue about reverse switches but your story just rang bells for me and my dilemma with my boot light.

ok i will give that a go with the reverse light....

now i have just been spending the last couple of hours changing the cogs on the speedo drive.. and here is what i am up to...

post-24129-1159412332.jpg

this pick shows the two speedo drives together... the r33 and the nissan navara one.. as you can see the r33 cog is considerably larger than the one on the navara...

post-24129-1159412347.jpg

in this pick i have got both the cogs off, the r33 one comes off easilly as it is held on by a c clip, the navara one is very difficult, as you can tell and i just hacked the stupid thing off!! but as you can see it is pressed/moulded on, so u have to cut it off...

post-24129-1159412371.jpg post-24129-1159412388.jpg

here you can see the two shafts together so u can see the difference.. you have to drill out the r33 cog a bit to get it to fit on.. i used a 9.5mm drill bit and it was a bit too small, and i cracked the cog!!!!, so i am now waiting for the superclue to dry and i will drill it out with a 10mm bit. hopefully it wont b too loose. but i will glue it on to be safe.. i will get back to yous when done...

the speedo was accurate when i finished and put it back in and everything.. but just then the speedo stopped working so i think the cog has fallen off in the gearbox... and i dont think i will be able to get it out without pulling it apart... so i was wondering if you guys would know if it is dangerous leaving it in there? will i do damage to the box? it is only plastic so would it just grind up? then i will change the oil in a month or so and it will come out when its a bit smaller?? lol wishful thinking...

the speedo was accurate when i finished and put it back in and everything.. but just then the speedo stopped working so i think the cog has fallen off in the gearbox... and i dont think i will be able to get it out without pulling it apart... so i was wondering if you guys would know if it is dangerous leaving it in there? will i do damage to the box? it is only plastic so would it just grind up? then i will change the oil in a month or so and it will come out when its a bit smaller?? lol wishful thinking...

mines done the same (crappy glue). last time i pulled it out it was still on the end...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...