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Cooling Mist


grigor
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Anyone else using the Cooling Mist kit?

Who's using boost input, AFM input, combination of both or perhaps you've modified the software?

Either way, absolutely zero knock.

Uses very little water/methanol on a highway trip and no more flashing yellow light.

You could be tempted to add even more ign.

Fantastic.

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i had a basic cool mist setup on my vlt ran 20- 28 psi on a na convert and made 253rwkw on 20 psi also ran 13.2 @124 mph with the thing at hethcote (28 psi) (couldnt get it off the line with out smashing the shit out of axels)

good value but i wouldnt rely on the system mine was there to prolong the abuse of the motor. it worked lol

i also ran 17 degrees base timing with the thing.

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i am a big fan of water and water/meth injection, i used it on my own turbo saab back when i started out and it went VERY well.

ive actualy got a new aquamist 2d system here that once i get the car fully sorted will be going on, cant beat the cooling benifits it offers.

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best place is as far away from the tb as possible and just past the intercooler outlet, spraying before the intercooler will result in puddles of water in your intake system.

placing the injection nozzle far away from the tb is good because it allows for maximum atomization and mixing with the charge which results in cooler,denser charge.

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best place is between the TBand IC as long as its able to be atomised properly,

before the IC is not good as the water can condense in the cooler.

edit: what he said ^ I was typing mine when he replied :)

also Ive seen silicon piping joiners with a nozzle attached through them, good idea if you dont like welding

Edited by midnight
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one of my supra friends pieced together a kit using an RV pump as the pressure source, has an accumulator to keep pressure up...seems to work well.

the aquamist kit is a very nice kit, well made and robust...pump that comes with it is high pressure (100psi) and is purpose built.

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The pumps are typical Sureflow etc 12V water pressure units, usually set at 60psi.

With anti syphon, non-return valves, filters and block nozzle detectors, there's a bit of gear to mount neatly.

From feed back I've received, it makes no difference where the nozzle is mounted as there's a LOT of air blasting past it at WOT.

I used the J-pipe as it's easy to drill and tap.

Have experienced no missing or hiccups as the mixture is injected. You wouldn't even know it was running except for the warning light.

Try the coolingmist website for more info.

I have R33 fit up photos for anyone interrested.

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have seen it setup on a 200sx

it used a hobbs pressure switch for manifold pressure

so i think it came on past 8psi

it was a car dr drift had done

it had a dash warning light for low water/meth

not sure where it injected it to, logical would say just before throttle body.

you shouldn't need to run this to take away knocking, unless you only have access to local penis fuel where you live (like the mafia). if you are getting yellow flashing engine light in normal conditions you need your tune fix, using meth/alky is only hiding the problem.

with this u can in theory dial in more ign timing and boost but once the water/meth is out or disabled you need to basically undo those temp changes otherwide it could detonate itself to death

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you shouldn't need to run this to take away knocking, unless you only have access to local penis fuel where you live (like the mafia). if you are getting yellow flashing engine light in normal conditions you need your tune fix, using meth/alky is only hiding the problem.

with this u can in theory dial in more ign timing and boost but once the water/meth is out or disabled you need to basically undo those temp changes otherwide it could detonate itself to death

Unfortunately all our fuels are down on octane compared to the japanese cocktails available from their bowsers. We'll definatley be dialling in more timing - being careful and keeping an eye on things. It'll be interesting to see how it goes with 98 octane fuel + water meth.

Interestingly the knock levels come and go depending on the petrol station and I only use one brand of fuel. I guess it just depends on how long it's been sitting in the petrol station's tanks and what the owner wants to call it - I'm sure I've bought dodgy 98 octane fuel before.

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Well a water injection kit of $850 once off and then its just the fluids costs which isnt much. As opposed to say buying 110 octane race fuel every race meet. Tell me which one would you buy and use and think is cheaper. I know one weekend of racing for us using 110 race fuel is not far off the price of the whole kit.

I honestly dont believe it is always totally masking the real problem, though im not saying it cant be used that way. Your car can be tuned to as good as it can get with your setup and anymore boost or ign advance would see too much knock and all conventional measures result is no reduction of it, then especially for a racing application its a relatively safe and cheap way of keeping knock down for safety or to allow for more power.

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ive found that water injecton is good for keeping temps down as well as egts when doing long pulls or track time.

it cools down much more than just the charge, cools the plenum, head, and the valves.

not to mention a car that has had water injecton run on it looks 100X better when torn down than one without, valves are usualy spotless and the head clean enough to eat off of, so it really does 2 things at once; cools the charge and cleans the head.

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Most members don’t realise how sophisticated the controllers are.

It’s not just an on/off boost controlled switch.

That’s why I asked what methods other users had tried.

The controller has pump duty cycle and inputs from boost or AFM.

Also via laptop you can tinker with the software to adjust ramp rates etc.

As for costs, $288 for 200L of Methanol isn’t too bad at all.

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I'm using our xede to drive a PWM output to an aquamist control solenoid. The xede will have one MAP Bank that will be used for a lean cruise function where it changes the volatges on both 02 sensors so it trims fuel around say 15.5:1. The PWM output will be mapped in 3d with one variable being RPM the other an EGT feedback. The other switched map will be for big boost where the water injection is just mapped with boost(or AFM) and rpm. I will aslo have TPS based and MAP based boost control on this MAP Bank.

Edited by rob82
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Well a water injection kit of $850 once off and then its just the fluids costs which isnt much. As opposed to say buying 110 octane race fuel every race meet. Tell me which one would you buy and use and think is cheaper. I know one weekend of racing for us using 110 race fuel is not far off the price of the whole kit.

I honestly dont believe it is always totally masking the real problem, though im not saying it cant be used that way. Your car can be tuned to as good as it can get with your setup and anymore boost or ign advance would see too much knock and all conventional measures result is no reduction of it, then especially for a racing application its a relatively safe and cheap way of keeping knock down for safety or to allow for more power.

Definately.

Also you don't have to spend $850 if you look at some US sites. Mine cost less than $500 delivered from a company over there, although the price has come up a bit since.

http://www.rx7store.net/category_s/89.htm

Cheers

Edited by gtst25
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