Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys heres the problem...

Ages ago when my car was stock, I did the high stage boost mod found in the DIY section (constantly grounding the solenoid to override the factory low/hi boost mode of 5psi and 7psi after 4500rpm)

As far back as i can remember, it worked just as it was supposed to, and saw 7psi constantly.

After fitting my exhaust, I got the common ~2psi gain, and the car would boost to 9psi with nothing other than a full 3" exhaust (no boost controller)

A while ago now I noticed it was spiking to ~11psi at 4500rpm, just like the standard solenoid used to do with the 5/7...

I thought fitting a boost controller (the manual JRD one with the massive thread on SAU) would fix it, as it completely bypasses the stock solenoid

We put mine on, and got it to hold 9-10psi...

My problem is, that even though i had the low/hi boost thing disabled before having the controller put in, my car is still spiking at 4500rpm!

now the problem is, that it will spike to ~12/13psi after 4500rpm.

Was hoping it was fixed with the installation of the MBC, but now its 9-10/12-13!!!!!!

im obviously not driving flat out atm so it wont hit over 10 anyway, but I need to fix the problem so that i dont kill my stock turbo with going over 13psi, and so that I can move forward mods wise...looking to fit fmic/pfc and tune shortly, but cant do that with this current issue.

Anyone got any ideas of what might be causing the spike, which happens SPOT ON 4500RPM, even though the solenoid has no hoses going into it, and is completely disconnected at the plug anyway...?

Sorry for the long winded post, but it should have all the neccessary info on whats happening for someone to take a stab at diagnosing...

Thanks in advance :(

Dezz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134181-r33-boost-spike-at-4500rpm/
Share on other sites

probably linked to the cams changing over

So why am I the only person having this problem?

Its a pretty big problem when you think about it....12psi being the limit of the stock turbo...and thats with a fmic or decent smic...I'm still running the stock cooler, hence setting it at 9psi...

Also the fact that with this spike, I can't really get my car tuned (once i get my fmic and pfc) as it'll spike to ~13psi once they pass 4500rpm, which they will obviously do to tune it...

Surely there's a way to fix this

hey dezz, so you are the one justin was talking about. it may be due to your dump pipe. they will slightly move on the turbo after time. it may have twisted to 1 side slightly and now is fowling the wastegate or the wastegate airflow slightly, and then when the cams change over (and it starts dumping more air out) it is causing the boost increase.

my advice would be to take the dump pipe off and make sure the wastegate is opening properly, and look for evidence of it hitting the dump pipe. if it is then grind the hole bigger on the dump pipe.

Justin told me what you think it is :sick:

We're gonna be trying some thing tomorrow to check if its hoses etc...bypass the boost controller...

if that doesnt fix it, then we'll check out the dump pipe like you've said.

Thanks

yeah skip the controller completely and it should just run of the actuator

if it still spikes to 13 then the actuator is mashed or the rod is mashed or the gate is fouled like mad said

Maybe get a good EBC and that will prevent spiking?

Yeah but the actuator shouldnt be spiking like that if everything is working properly. I get in there and check everything out first

By the way I hear this problem only happens in 40th Aniversary model R33 I think you should swap with me.

Just jokes mate im jealous!

Cheers

Chris

if you didnt have the problem before you fitted the controller then its the way the controller is fitted, or at least logic would say anyway.

i cant see it being that actuator at fault, if you remove the controller does the problem go away ?

I had the problem before the controller was fitted.

Update on this...

Justin and I pulled it all off today, took off the controller, and took off the heatshield to check out the dump pipe etc...

We basically took it all off, looked at it for a bit, and then put it back on....lol

Took it for a test, and it holds 9-10psi all the way (tested to about 6000rpm in 2nd)...so confusing...lol

However, the day we fitted it, I could swear it held 9-10 when we first tested it...but a day or 2 later I noticed it spiking...so although it seemed to work today, i'll get excited if its still holding in a day or 2!

I have the same problem i believe its your manual boost controller.

Mine use to spike to 1 bar..

Have turned it down a fair bit, and only spikes to .9 bar which is alright. Car can handle it..

Btw there are no hoses going to your stock soleniod??

But now since playing around with the boost, i have to many flat spots in 2nd.. guess i need a tune!!!

edit:

I got my car dynoed at dyno day, and they said my car was running a little rich.. Which is gd news since mine use to spike a fair bit.

But i have just turned my boost down a bit and doesnt spike at all past 1 bar.

SO my suggestion is just turn the boost down a little..

Edited by siddr20

Stock solenoid has no hoses going to it, but its unplugged anyway...its as good as off the car.

I'll update in here after a day or 2, when I can see if it was just a once off thing again, or if its going to last this time..

literally all we did was unplug it, take off the heatshield, look at the turbo/dump area, and i moved the rod that goes to the actuator with my hand....we did absolutely nothing else lol

dezz, i suggest checking ur boost in a higher gear, like 3rd, pref 4th if possible. u get a more accurate reading there. but i guess if the spiking was apparent in 2nd before, and it's gone now, u should be ok.

so what was the prob anyway?

edit: nevermind, it's a mystery, lol.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...