Aircon Problems

[Rekin]

Hey, have had my r32 for a couple of weeks and have noticed the inside of the car seems to heat up a fair bit.

Whilst having the climate control off and driving a lot of hot air can be felt near the feet.

Also when the fan button is pressed, without ac or econ, only hot air seems to flow through and not outside temperature air...

With all windows closed the car gets stuffy inside from all this warm air leaking into the car.

My AC compressor is dead, but this only works when AC is turned on.

Ive tried setting climate control to 18deg and turning off but still get hot air.

Have also run the climate control diag and all seems to be fine except for one part;

In the sensor recognition part

Temperatures will be displayed in the following order (R32):

5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp

Arriving home 1hr ago, temps are:

5 -> 19 -> 31 -> 43 -> 31

And the inside of the car is much warmer than outside.

My suction temp always seems to be much hotter than the other stated temperatures.

Maybe this suction temp relates to the same temperature as the hot air flowing out through vents...

Anyone have any idea what the problem is?

Thanks

- Patrick

[700HP-GTR33]

Did you buy the car from the Importer?

Normally they empty the gas in Japan and never fill it in Australiua.

[Rekin]

Did you buy the car from the Importer?

Normally they empty the gas in Japan and never fill it in Australiua.

I bought the car from a compliancer who said it was degassed and regas not included in deal. I took it to AC workshop yesterday who told me that there is plenty of AC gas but the conpressor was broken. So i have no idea whats going on haha.

Just wondering why all this hot air is coming out from vents when fan is turned on

[(OO Black 33 OO)]

i have a r33 and when i took off the dash i disconnected a tube which runs to alittle vent like looking part, about 1cmx2cm, mate had his disconnected in his 180 and the same thing happened, when he reconnected it was fine. When i disconnected mine i also noticed it was alot warmer even with the air on. Try taking off your dash and see if you have a tube connected, if so check to see if the wiring (also part of it) is also connected. If this is so then i do not know what the problem could be. Good luck

EDIT: i believe that if not connected the car says to send hot air in thinking its cold.

Edited September 15, 2006 by gts33t

[skylinegtts]

ive got this problem aswell.

i think ive concluded it to being the doors from the engine bay to the incabin being open. they managed to close once and no hot/warm air leaked in but stayed open the next time i turned the heater on.

i have no idea how to keep it closed.

i tried playing with the diagnostic at nite and could hear the door opening and closing, once i got it closed i turned it off, then i turned the fan on and i could hear the doors opening but when i turned it off i didnt hear the doors closing, the motors i mean, so that what i think my problem is and it mite be the same for you aswell

[RANDY]

Skygtts is on the money there I think.

The cabin air-temp thing has been covered before, but if your A/C sensors are reading correct temps for the cabin, then it shouldn't try to make it hotter. Suction sees 43 degrees, then it should be pumping normal outside air in (without A/C on). It's trying, but the flap is diverting it onto the heater core, which is where the heat is coming from.

So, if that's all fine, then i'd suggest that the metal rod that controls the flap for the feet has fallen off. That would leave the heat from the heater core pumping out.

I think someone put up a DIY or just a pic on how to reach it from the drivers footwell, then you can just clip it back in place. Do some searches for that?

[Rekin]

Skygtts is on the money there I think.

The cabin air-temp thing has been covered before, but if your A/C sensors are reading correct temps for the cabin, then it shouldn't try to make it hotter. Suction sees 43 degrees, then it should be pumping normal outside air in (without A/C on). It's trying, but the flap is diverting it onto the heater core, which is where the heat is coming from.

So, if that's all fine, then i'd suggest that the metal rod that controls the flap for the feet has fallen off. That would leave the heat from the heater core pumping out.

I think someone put up a DIY or just a pic on how to reach it from the drivers footwell, then you can just clip it back in place. Do some searches for that?

Would this also affect the hot air coming through all the vents? When i run the DIAG and switch between 41-45 (different vents) they all blow the same hot air, front vents, demisters, feet etc.

Will try and find this diy/pic you have mentioned.

Thankyou for the help.

Regards

Patrick

[ceedub]

I had a similar problem where I had hot air continuosly leaking in.

Turned out ot be the airmix actuator was not opening/closing.

This actuator is located behind the headunit (on an R32). It controls the hot and cold air distribution depending on your temp setting. You can get to it by pulling out the headunit and you should see a black actuator with a white lever towards the back of the firewall. This lever should move as you adjust the temp from hot to cold etc.

Mine worked intermitently and the problem was that the soldering of the terminals inside the actuator had broken. Just resoldered the pins - problem fixed.

Actuator can be a b%^& to get out though.

Good luck.

c

[RANDY]

Patrick... yes I think so. If it should only come out of one, but it still comes out of feet, it would follow that the feet flap is stuck open.

So when you go for cold air there, it's still letting air flow past the heater core and out the feet vent.

It's hard to say definately because i'm going by what i've read, and your A/C doesn't work? You say it's hot air without A/C on, which should mean that the flap isn't moving towards the outside air pipe and is stuck on the heater-core pipe.

So i'm assuming that if you put A/C on, it's still going to come out quite hot.

[Rekin]

Was playing around with diag, where you can change the fan from 41-47. Whilst sticking my hand near the feet vent and alternating through the numbers it opened/closed depending on the numbers i cycled though.

Reading previous posts made in 2002~ the main problem seemed to be the tube behind the vent as indicated by gts33t. Will need to pull apart dash to check it out.

Will be also going to a few a/c mechs tomorrow to explain the problem.

Thanks

[RANDY]

But the sensor was reading correctly when you did the diag?

My pipe was off for a while, but the sensor is screwed onto the dash plastic, so surely it'd still read the ambient cabin temp?

Oh well... give the sensor a clean and hook up the pipe and see what happens?

[mad082]

could it just be that there is hot air radiating off the road and it is hotter than normal air temp.

also try hitting the recirculate button.

[Rekin]

Well after trying to take off the dash to look around, i decided to take it to the pro's haha.

Told him to give it a free look and i was amazed. Being the 3rd ac workshop ive been to this one actually knew their stuff.

Turns out to be the motor which controls the rod near the feet which move it from hot/cold is dead

Also known as Blend Door Servo Motor. Located underdash on passenger side.

He asked me to source one out my self as it will be cheaper than paying for a brand new one. If anyone has a halfcut with this motor please pm me

They moved the setting to cold, so only cold air will flow through the vents and disconnected my compressor to stop the rattling noise.

So all up;

compressor fit, retro fit ac to r134A gas system. (currently R12), labour, replace motor, regass etc.

~ $611

Now to get this motor.

Anyone know in Victoria who can install compressor and/or motor for cheaper?

Thanks

- Patrick

[RANDY]

Turns out to be the motor which controls the rod near the feet which move it from hot/cold is dead

Also known as Blend Door Servo Motor. Located underdash on passenger side.

So, if that's all fine, then i'd suggest that the metal rod that controls the flap for the feet has fallen off. That would leave the heat from the heater core pumping out.

Do I get points for being REALLY damn close? ;op

[JaiJai]

Skygtts is on the money there I think.

The cabin air-temp thing has been covered before, but if your A/C sensors are reading correct temps for the cabin, then it shouldn't try to make it hotter. Suction sees 43 degrees, then it should be pumping normal outside air in (without A/C on). It's trying, but the flap is diverting it onto the heater core, which is where the heat is coming from.

So, if that's all fine, then i'd suggest that the metal rod that controls the flap for the feet has fallen off. That would leave the heat from the heater core pumping out.

I think someone put up a DIY or just a pic on how to reach it from the drivers footwell, then you can just clip it back in place. Do some searches for that?

^^^ wise words my old 180 had the same issue followed the guide and was alll ok

[kursed]

link to this guide? I have the same issue

[foznice]

when you did the AC diagnostic, did it throw up any error codes in the first mode? ( or is it second - I can't remember)... anyways, if that part is fine fine it should flash '20'. Did it flash 20? or did you get something else?

[Rekin]

when you did the AC diagnostic, did it throw up any error codes in the first mode? ( or is it second - I can't remember)... anyways, if that part is fine fine it should flash '20'. Did it flash 20? or did you get something else?

Just did the test again and everything is fine. If the motor was dead would it be showing an error code? I get 20 for 1st mode, indicating everything normal, 30 for next mode (as it cycles through vent movement and shows 30 is normal, cycled through 41-47 and felt all air and all temperatures were normal.

Havent tried setting temp to hot whilst driving, maybe pushing the flap back to full cold may have got it unstuck and it may be working fine again? Will try next time im driving

Hope you can share some knowledge about your AC foznice

Thanks

- Patrick

[foznice]

usually, I would think that if there is a problem with the hot/cold flap motor, then this would come up withthe error code '26' (as opposed to 20).. which means something is very fishy?

Where abouts you located patrick, maybe I can drop by one day and take a look for you?