Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people,

Just after some advice about my rb25 & what should be done to achieve the best response and power!

I have the head off the car getting planed etc & have decided to put in a set of Tomei Poncams Duration: IN, EX 256 Lift: IN,EX 8.5mm,

So I was wondering what would be best as I was only going to put a Cam gear on the exhaust side as I wanted to run the VCT with the cams, but I just wanted to know what people are doing are you using an Inlet & Exhaust cam gear & not running VCT or are you running VCT! As I am tyring to find out some of the setting people are using to achieve good power & results

Sorry if doesn’t make sense but I think there enough there to get someone opinion

Cheers

Alan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134806-tomie-poncams-vct/
Share on other sites

Al, I've got an adj. cam pulley on the exhaust side only, had it before I bought the cams. Now that I have got the cams, my pulley is reset to zero degrees. You don't really need the adj. pulley with the cams, they are dialed in OK from tomei. If money is no problem then get one, you may be able to squeeze out an extra kw or two by setting the pulley up +/- 1 or two degrees, but don't be surprised if all you did was blow your $$$$ and the cams are best at zero degrees.

the standard gear is adjustable its just u have to pull it out to adjust it

ive got a custom bolt on thingy on mine to adjust the exhaust side

bass junky made it up, maybe look into that as u wont need to replace it then

I run those cams in my Rb25. I too have asjustable gears but the cams are set to 0degrees.

I have a HKS 3037s running 1.5 bar 0 is still the best setting.

Ditto...but different turbo and different boost >_<

  • 1 year later...
the standard gear is adjustable its just u have to pull it out to adjust it

ive got a custom bolt on thingy on mine to adjust the exhaust side

bass junky made it up, maybe look into that as u wont need to replace it then

you talking shit again Paul.

have another try.

you mean the inlet cam gear is adjustable.

everyone says the poncams are best set at zero, but this is with a unopened engine.

if you have decked either your block or head then the distance between teeth on the timing belt will change and therfor your cam gears will need to change to find zero again.

if you have decked either your block or head then the distance between teeth on the timing belt will change.

??

Umm what does decking the head or block have to do with the timing belt?

Edit: I know what you mean but you didn't explain it very well. It's the distance between the crank gear and the cam gears that different. Do you really think it changes enough to warrant adjusting the the cam gears? I suppose so. You would be adjusting them the same amount as each other though, you would need both gears to be adjustable.

yea sorry i didnt explain myself very well.

i will try again.

assume we are using a genuine nissan timing belt that has the marks on it to line up with the timing gears.

if you remove the standard head gasket and chuck a 2mm head gasket in there it will lift the head higher then standard.

to line the marks up with the standard timing marks on the nissan belt you will have to advance both gears 2 or 3 degrees. this will still show the gears set at zero, but compared to the crank they are not.

on the other hand if you have a full rebuild and they deck both your block and head and you run a stock thicknes haed gasket, you will then have to retard your gears to set them at the standard marks.

it may only be a degree or two but its still out.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...