Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm just after people opinons on this,

I'm up for a rebuild at the mome and don't like to do things half arsed lol, narrowed down my choices to 2 setups

a gt3040R on a worked 25 or a gt3540R on a worked 25/30

i will be looking to get proengines to do the build regardless but does anyone know of them doing a rb25/30det before? and at what sort of cost?

as far as i'm aware there still in a transition state at the moment so i don't want to bother them just yet lol

and basically what i'm after is more than 300rkw with as little lag as possible

budget 15g but of course would like to stay below that by a fair margin if possible :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135212-rb30det-worth-it/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

okay no reply's but justing letting ppl know that'll i'll be able to tell you all if it's worth it :)

not going all out cos i picked up a standard just built 25/30 for a damn good price picking it up this sunday, my cars currently at autotech having the 25 pulled, it will be interesting when's it back together with the same set up as what was on the 25

I guess it will show straight away what differnce the extra .5L makes, i'm thinking bigger turbo will be a definant requirement and is first on the list to be done

figures are one thing, but what i was meaning it will be real interesting to actually feel the differnce in the exact same car with same mods on to primarily standard motors except one 2.5 one 3l i'm looking forward to it

Edited by Slither

I would love to go the 3 litre. and if the rb20 should die i will be doing a rb25/30 budget build. you will dfinatly feel the difference.

mainly the torque as soon as you put your foot down even at low revs.

Booo, truck engine.

Shouldve done a 26 so it can rev its ass of :)

lol not so actually can still be pushed till around 7500 standard, with full rebuild 8000+ should be reachable I'm going back to factory 7000 just to play it safe, will be interesting to have full boost a 2000 with stock turbo I'll miss reving her out tho till i get a much bigger turbo that is :no:

speaking of which i've heard of trojan doing some no name turbo for a good price that's meant to be surprisingly effective apparantly the burgendy 300+ r33 they did had it anyone heard of this?

Let me know how it goes as i'm just about to pick up an RB30 block for mine. The old RB20 is on its way out so hopefully i'll have the new engine built by then. :ninja:

hook me up with a good price on the gt35 kit and you can even drive it :P

Edited by Slither

Longer stroke + bigger cc's=more torque for anRB 30.

Torque balances power [hp,kw]. The longer the stroke the greater the torque, the less you can hurry the motor [revs].

The shorter the stroke the greater the power, the more you can rev the a#se off it.

But consider torque vs power as the ability to push through a brick wall. A rev happy motor will get to the brick wall quickly, and whack it hard, but it will dissipate its energy quickly.

A torque laden motor will reach the wall much more slowly, and will hit the wall 'gently' but will continue through the wall and out the other side.

Torque is work, power is energy.

Its power that makes you go fast, its torque that fights the headwind.

This is like a tractor pulling a stump out with 80hp vs a car trying to do it with 600hp. Older tractors [the common grey fergie type] are usually two to four cylinder diesels with 50hp small bores, and long stroke crankshafts. F1's [senna, Schumacher] cars are short stroke and [in relation] big bores.

Manufacturers try to find a balance based on expected use for each motor.

I've probably gone overboard here, but you should get the picture now.

Not everything that revs is powerful.

my datto revs to 9k but doesnt make good power until after 4.5k. Its a combo of bore/stroke, if id stayed 1.6L i couldve made 10k revs but it doesnt offer any benfit to 9k in the 1.8L. doesnt bother me as its for track/hillclimb where you revs its arse off all day but itd sauck to drive all day around town.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...