Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i go autobarn/repco already, but the staff said they dun have it for my car

well tell them to pull their finger out. i have personally seen the listing in the NGK book for both r32 and r33 skylines. they may be using an old book. they won't have it in stock, they will have to order it.

if they still say they can't get it, ask for 1 for a n15 SSS pulsar (sr20 motor). they should be able to find that since they aren't an import (well they are, but nissan imported them. they aren't a private import like skylines). they are the same part number.

Edited by mad082
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2522948
Share on other sites

i just called repco australia. god they are the slackest people in the world.

gave the dude a call and asked him for a skyline o2 sensor, and straight up he says: "you'll have to do some reseach otherwise i can't get the part number for you"

wtf?!

anyway

BOSCH: 2269013007 = $ 126

NGK: 0zA395 E2 = $155

why are the skyline ones so pricey, a mate bought one for his S13 SR20 for $50 @ repco the other week!

that said there's a trader for SAu selling the NGK ones for $110 plus $10.50 postage.

i've seen posts where people have gotten direct fit sensors for like $75.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2523748
Share on other sites

heh funny story, i asked the same dude who you rang (eug) at repco this morning while i was in store with some mates and he thought i was you....

anyway cheers for the part numbers, i will be getting my o2 sensor changed soon too. 20L/100km sux bigtime

Edited by flagger
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2524833
Share on other sites

agreed. a new o2 sensor made no difference to my fuel economy, although some claim it made a huge difference to theirs.

from what i gather, the biggest difference between differing results (besides safc or pfc) is whether you're clocking up k's on the open road, or city driving.

my results, ~ 50L / 320kms city driving - 420kms freeway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2525277
Share on other sites

i called NGK last week...

the guy had no listing for the rb20det

then, he said he'd do some research and call japan and see if he can get one in..

he called me back.. moral of the story? NGK don't make an O2 sensor for the rb20det

END OF STORY

well they should recall all of their catalogues that say they do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2528021
Share on other sites

dude at repco tried to charge me $140, and $150 for the NTK and Bosch ones... wtf... then tried to sell me a universal ACA one...

just ordered one from kudos motorsports... see how things go

car is no longer running rich, bit more free reving, certainly feels a little faster...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2528041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...