Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nothing... its a family car. they don't sell for much.

its not a 350GT

its not a cvt8

its silver (most common colour... ever)

edit: oh and it doesn't have any dealer markups :mellow:

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Man, that is cheap but it's a 300GT. Not trying to be picky but proves my earlier point about imports:

2001 model with 25,000Kms on the clock....

Man, that is cheap but it's a 300GT. Not trying to be picky but proves my earlier point about imports:

2001 model with 25,000Kms on the clock....

when you're dealing with imports you never go by the kms it shows on the odo... that's why we recommend a thorough imspection prior to purchase.

350GT V35 sedan's come up at auction everyday... if you bid on em at auction you can generally get em cheaper than from export agents and used car dealers in japan. You're looking at mid 20's landed and complied for the base model (non Premium edition etc) with average km's, early model, in a common colour and stock standard.

what about the Mazda 6 MPS? or a toyota chaser? they're both in the 20's... or oddly enough an R34 sedan? Even a 2JZ Toyota Aristo (Lexus GS300) is in the 20's.

ouch... all I can say in my defence is that the last locally sold car I owned was in 1997.

anyways, I got the idea for them being high 20K's from the fact that regular mazda 6's seem to sell for low 20's. But I guess they only released them recently... plus the drivetrain difference.

Oh, and I guess another thing about owning another import is that I've had it with filling up with 98 RON fuel only, esp with petrol prices.

Also, had it with the cop attention and vandals who get jealous of imports.

Maybe I'm getting old.... :rolleyes: but I guess I want to return to the "norm". Not to the extent of being a cardigan Camry or taxi Falcadore driver tho... :P

Let hear it from some of the gals on the forum... not in technical sense but in terms of style or type of "youngish" guy driving a car like the Maxima. Will I be seen as an "old fart" or driving "Daddy's car"? :P

I have had absolutly NO issues from the police, even out cruising, because it is a wagon, I mean who makes a performance wagon........... Plus it looks like a volvo with mags and a big 4 inch tip, bah it is not a performce import, no not at all.. :rolleyes:

I even forgot that I have my Stealth BOV (adjustable from atmo to plumbback) anyway I had that on full atmo one night and had a police pull up beside and as we drove the bloody bov vented with a mighty roar, PPSSHHHTTT .... I thought FARK I AM SO FARKED! But he just sort of looked over wierdly, slowed down a bit and then turned off, so guess I was either lucky or he was in a good mood. BUT I bet you $1 that if i was in my old R33 he wouldve pulled me over and defected the crap out of me faster than a horny male gunie pig put into the female cage!

Absolutely top car. I have driven heaps of these as rentals and loan cars. It is a fantastically relaxing car to drive, and looks good with the standard 17s. Slap on a bit of chrome from the Nissan accessories if you want to be different.

There are some out there for low 20K if you look. If you can find an ST with leather and power seats, it will be excellent. No need to pay for an autochanger in the glovebox and sunroof if you ask me.

If want to be really different, there should be some Japanese Nismo gear for it (sold as the Teana) especially in the area of the rear bar, to show off the twin exhausts.

Now if I sell my R33 GTS-T, the A32 Maxima and the K11 Micra I might yet buy one of these....

Actually used two J31 Max's as our wedding cars last year.....

They get pretty good reviews all around as being one of the best in class. As the demand is a little lower, and not being anything in the 'hot' basket, you should be able to get a good deal on one I would say.

While the V35 would be that step above (even though to me there isn't a massive looks difference on the 4door), you'd have to consider the expense of getting parts above a local Maxima, or say a new front end if in an accident, etc. The newer the import, and the less of them around, the harder getting parts.

Maximas are a great used car to own, since they've got an absolutely rubbish resale value. As for driving, its like a sofa on wheels. Great car if you don't feel like attacking a corner, but being comfortable, though.

Another car to consider would be a top-spec Magna. Like the Maxima it gets mauled in resale, so you can get a 2-3 year old one with all the fruit (leather interior, climate control, cruise, etc) for a pittance.

Bought one for my wife, a little while ago, and she and I absolutely love it. Very comfy seats, minimal noise inside and very very nice motor. It's funny how little torque steer you get when you put your foot down on take off, I was expecting much more.

Heaps of luggage space (actually has more litres of luggage space than an x-trail). And the clincher......

Absolutely awesome engine note above 5000rpm :-)

I was weighing up a V35 sedan when buying, but with two kids the extra space you get from the Maxima is what sold me.

The only down side, suspension is a little soft for the twisty bits.

I have owned a J31 for a few years now.

Suspension was a little on the soft side so pedders springs and struts solved that.

A little underpowered but a Z33 ECM and cams also solved that.

Id recommend the maxima over the magna etc any day.

On a side note my J31 is for sale for a very reasonable price if your seriously interested with remaining factory warranty.

Thanks for all your input guys. I went to a few dealers on the weekend and one Honda dealer offerred a brand new 2006 upgrade Accord VTI (not the Euro) for $30K driveaway. It's no sports car but it is a brand new car (as opposed to 2 - 3 years old cars).

It has a 2.4 i-VTEC which has been retuned from 118kW to 125kW.

I'm seriously considering this. Obviously there is still room for more haggling...

Here are some shots of the Accord VTI.

Edited by gel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...