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Installed A New Cooler

WogsRus

By WogsRus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

Hi

Well today i installed my new cooler, the car ran shit at first, cos it was just not use to it, then i found my timmin gwas out, so fixed that, and well the car pull like the proverbial, but not after 6000rpm, the engine sounds a bit like its flat, and valve bouncing or something of that nature, tried to sure it by stuffing arround with my SAFC II and no good, still does it, it's a funny sound.

I don't think it's my timming i set that to 18 deg, seams to go better, i followed the skyline manual to do this.

I am still running stock boost and plugs gapped to .8mm but maybe the coils are on the way out. What are the coils suppose to be, how do i check them. PLEASE HELP.

Other then that the car has a new fuel pump, and filter, and a new adjustable pressure reg, new temp sensor and )2 sensor. Pod ect ect.

What are some common problems that mioght be occuring, can somone give me some pointers?

HELP URGENTLY. PLEASE.

Could it be cracked manifold or something to that nature?

ANYTHING??????

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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well it took me a whole day to put the coole on the way i wanted, not pullin git off now.

I am just not sure what it could be, it sounds lice valve bounce, as if the springs can't rev that hight or something, but it goes dam hard, but above 6000 or so rpm, it seams a bit weird.

Leaning out makes no difeerance, ritchening up makes no differance eaither.

I set the timing by unplugign the throttel sensor and setting it to about 18 deg, as the manual states, well it states 15 but i prefer 18, and then reconected everything.

if i had an exhauts crack or something, would you hear it, what would the symptoms be.

Also if it's the colis or something, would the car give out at high rpm or something like that.

How do i test the coils, what ohms ect???

Dam turbos, atmo is sooooo muc easier, lol.

RaseR Collaborator

RaseR

Posted
Posted

Just my 2c - you would know if it's the coils...If they're cracked or stuffed in any way, it will it sound like you've hit a rev limiter at around 4500rpm or so upwards (exhaust popping and general misfiring). That's my experience with cracked coils on an S2 R33...Splitfires fixed the problem - but it doesn't sound like what you're experiencing.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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buga, ONE POINT ON THE TIMING SETING?

you need to disconnect the TP to se the timing, and if i do that timing shows 18 deg once teh TP goes back on it will only show 13 deg, why is that and is something else wrong?

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

im not totaly sure but if your timing is to far advanced than that may be causing your problem. you should set it to how the book says. if it says 15 degrees with the TPS off than set it to that. then when the TPS goes back on it should drop back to 10 wich is what i think manual skylines are ment to have. plus as the engine revs than the timing will advance/ retard (cant remember) and it may be to advanced/ retarded at the top end.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Yeah, i'd say get the timing back to normal. The timing changes all the time with our motors (RB25DET), because we have VCT. I think the stock ECU can only retard or advance so much? I guess that would mean that if it needs to pull it back a lot, it can't go about 3 degrees as much when you set it 3 degrees advanced.

I'm sure someone's going to ask for more info too... might want to list ALL the mods? A tuner told my mate that his cat was holding it back at high RPM's... it couldn't flow enough, so it was causing some flat spot up around that 6000rpm area. The rest of the exhaust was 3" with dumps (32 GTR).

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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ok so here we go again.

I went to check my base idel with the AAC valve, and she was sitting at 1200 rpm with the TP off. So i turned it all the way in, and only got it down to 900rpm, reconect the TP, down to 650 rpm, and i could not do anything on the computer to get it anylower, you know the screw adjusting thing.

So ok, re-did the timing on that, and the car pulls much better, also leaned out the map a bit, and dam does it pull now, yeeehhhaa.

Looks like most of the problems are solved, well appart from the AAC being stupid, i think it's time for a clean.

The car is goign for a tune next week, so i am goignt o try and clean my AAC valve and get the idel to be OK.

Either way the car runs fine, who knows.

ANYONE have any ideas what the deal is with the AAC valve???

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
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what i mean is that the AAC valve does not go lower then 900 rpm, so i can't seam to set it properly, i thorght that once the TP is off, you can set the id;e by the AAC to 650 rpm, mine only goes down to 900 rpm.

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