Jump to content
SAU Community

Installed A New Cooler

WogsRus

By WogsRus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

Hi

Well today i installed my new cooler, the car ran shit at first, cos it was just not use to it, then i found my timmin gwas out, so fixed that, and well the car pull like the proverbial, but not after 6000rpm, the engine sounds a bit like its flat, and valve bouncing or something of that nature, tried to sure it by stuffing arround with my SAFC II and no good, still does it, it's a funny sound.

I don't think it's my timming i set that to 18 deg, seams to go better, i followed the skyline manual to do this.

I am still running stock boost and plugs gapped to .8mm but maybe the coils are on the way out. What are the coils suppose to be, how do i check them. PLEASE HELP.

Other then that the car has a new fuel pump, and filter, and a new adjustable pressure reg, new temp sensor and )2 sensor. Pod ect ect.

What are some common problems that mioght be occuring, can somone give me some pointers?

HELP URGENTLY. PLEASE.

Could it be cracked manifold or something to that nature?

ANYTHING??????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135692-installed-a-new-cooler/
Share on other sites
WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well it took me a whole day to put the coole on the way i wanted, not pullin git off now.

I am just not sure what it could be, it sounds lice valve bounce, as if the springs can't rev that hight or something, but it goes dam hard, but above 6000 or so rpm, it seams a bit weird.

Leaning out makes no difeerance, ritchening up makes no differance eaither.

I set the timing by unplugign the throttel sensor and setting it to about 18 deg, as the manual states, well it states 15 but i prefer 18, and then reconected everything.

if i had an exhauts crack or something, would you hear it, what would the symptoms be.

Also if it's the colis or something, would the car give out at high rpm or something like that.

How do i test the coils, what ohms ect???

Dam turbos, atmo is sooooo muc easier, lol.

RaseR Collaborator

RaseR

Posted
Posted

Just my 2c - you would know if it's the coils...If they're cracked or stuffed in any way, it will it sound like you've hit a rev limiter at around 4500rpm or so upwards (exhaust popping and general misfiring). That's my experience with cracked coils on an S2 R33...Splitfires fixed the problem - but it doesn't sound like what you're experiencing.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

buga, ONE POINT ON THE TIMING SETING?

you need to disconnect the TP to se the timing, and if i do that timing shows 18 deg once teh TP goes back on it will only show 13 deg, why is that and is something else wrong?

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

im not totaly sure but if your timing is to far advanced than that may be causing your problem. you should set it to how the book says. if it says 15 degrees with the TPS off than set it to that. then when the TPS goes back on it should drop back to 10 wich is what i think manual skylines are ment to have. plus as the engine revs than the timing will advance/ retard (cant remember) and it may be to advanced/ retarded at the top end.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Yeah, i'd say get the timing back to normal. The timing changes all the time with our motors (RB25DET), because we have VCT. I think the stock ECU can only retard or advance so much? I guess that would mean that if it needs to pull it back a lot, it can't go about 3 degrees as much when you set it 3 degrees advanced.

I'm sure someone's going to ask for more info too... might want to list ALL the mods? A tuner told my mate that his cat was holding it back at high RPM's... it couldn't flow enough, so it was causing some flat spot up around that 6000rpm area. The rest of the exhaust was 3" with dumps (32 GTR).

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok so here we go again.

I went to check my base idel with the AAC valve, and she was sitting at 1200 rpm with the TP off. So i turned it all the way in, and only got it down to 900rpm, reconect the TP, down to 650 rpm, and i could not do anything on the computer to get it anylower, you know the screw adjusting thing.

So ok, re-did the timing on that, and the car pulls much better, also leaned out the map a bit, and dam does it pull now, yeeehhhaa.

Looks like most of the problems are solved, well appart from the AAC being stupid, i think it's time for a clean.

The car is goign for a tune next week, so i am goignt o try and clean my AAC valve and get the idel to be OK.

Either way the car runs fine, who knows.

ANYONE have any ideas what the deal is with the AAC valve???

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what i mean is that the AAC valve does not go lower then 900 rpm, so i can't seam to set it properly, i thorght that once the TP is off, you can set the id;e by the AAC to 650 rpm, mine only goes down to 900 rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...