R32 Headlight

[Zman]

Gday Folks!

I've noticed lately my headlights have gotten worse.

Are there any ways to bring it back up to scratch?

I've already replaced them with BATMBL's globes however those didnt make any difference so this has lead me to believe it might be the old wiring??

Any suggestions?

Cheers

Z

Edited September 24, 2006 by Zman

[Bl4cK32]

adding relays to the std wiring will improve the brightness of the globes.

[Andyn]

Black32 can you elaborate on that? Im interested to make mine brighter.

[GTR1993]

If the wiring is poor to the std globes there will be less then full voltage to them, there for they are not at bright. The r32 doesn't use a relay for low beam power goes through the switch, so this eventually renders the switch useless and has less then optimum power supply.

Adding relays and a good power source just takes the load off the switch and gives the more power avalible to the globes.

At the moment im putting relays in my R32, also might go to a higher wattage bulb as well to try get some extra brightness as they are quite poor.

[cowie165]

Alex would you mind posting your progress with the relays please? I'm planning on doing the same thing but if you're going there first some pointers would be great.

And if you've not yet started, I made a DIY headlight switch replacement thread in the DIY section. Has a few pics that might help things along.

Anyway mate, love to hear which relay you used and where you placed it.

Cheers

Mark

[GTR1993]

Hi, this is how I was going to do it, twin relays with dual outputs on each, either putting the relays next to the fuse box or behind the drivers side head light. I have 2 narva 40 amp relays, going to use large wiring (5-6mm) and probably 90/100W glabes. I was going to take the signal just from the drivers side head light plug when i cut it off, but now im thinking of taking out the stock wiring and running the new stuff in the factory tubing. Also thinking about removing the high beam relay and taking the signal wire for high beam off there. Also thinking about putting relays in the stock relay box. What ideas you got?

Edited September 26, 2006 by GTR1993

[123456]

hehe probably a stupid suggestion, but have you tried adjusting the angle screws on the back of the lights? I thought mine were dim, then i figured they were just aimed down to much, and one of them was aimed cross eyed.

Doubt that'll help but its worth a shot

[Zman]

hehe probably a stupid suggestion, but have you tried adjusting the angle screws on the back of the lights? I thought mine were dim, then i figured they were just aimed down to much, and one of them was aimed cross eyed.

Doubt that'll help but its worth a shot

hehe that might explain why my high beams are pointing up.

Anyways i've discovered my wiring on the right headlight is has called it quits (parkies still work though).

What a Pain in the ass...

[cowie165]

Hi, this is how I was going to do it, twin relays with dual outputs on each, either putting the relays next to the fuse box or behind the drivers side head light. I have 2 narva 40 amp relays, going to use large wiring (5-6mm) and probably 90/100W glabes. I was going to take the signal just from the drivers side head light plug when i cut it off, but now im thinking of taking out the stock wiring and running the new stuff in the factory tubing. Also thinking about removing the high beam relay and taking the signal wire for high beam off there. Also thinking about putting relays in the stock relay box. What ideas you got?

Well by comparison, if I said "me fail English? that's umpossible" would you know where I'm at?

Seriously though, after a few rereads I'm almost up to speed. I'd prefer to replace the factory wiring but I can see it being a pain in the butt. There may be enough room in the dash for one (maaaaaybe two) of the relays - have you considered placing them there?

I like your idea about removing the high beam relay. If you can fit them in the stock relay box, I'd do that.

Are you using 12V direct from the battery or are you tapping something in the dash? I've read that using the constant for alarms and headunits can screw them up by reducing the input voltage to the equipment...?

100W globes sounds nice but I've recently read that guys that have tried them ended up melting/damaging the plastic within the headlight itself. I've not seen it myself but apparently it's a square peg/round hole sort of thing.

You're making me keen again! What did you pay for the Narva relays?

Cheers

edit: great diagram! so for all the guys that haven't seen a circuit diagram since uni, you are drawing 12V directly from the alternator? seems unusual, so I've probably got it wrong. That'd mean you'd need a voltage regulator in series after the split?

[Ronin 09]

for the non-electrical engineers out there... will your circuit mean that the low beams will remian on when the high is triggered?

[GTR1993]

Seriously though, after a few rereads I'm almost up to speed. I'd prefer to replace the factory wiring but I can see it being a pain in the butt. There may be enough room in the dash for one (maaaaaybe two) of the relays - have you considered placing them there?

I was thinking of keeping the relays as close to the headlights as i can, just so there is less wiring. Just for simplicity.

I like your idea about removing the high beam relay. If you can fit them in the stock relay box, I'd do that.

I still need to check this, i have been installing a new deck and amp today, tommorrow i will have a look at the fuse box option.

Are you using 12V direct from the battery or are you tapping something in the dash? I've read that using the constant for alarms and headunits can screw them up by reducing the input voltage to the equipment...?

The 12v to power the lights them selves (to the relays) im going to take from the alternator (again i didnt explaine my self before, my battery is in the boot, so i cant take it directly off there) Only reason i said alternator is i found a web site that said you can do that. Failing that i will go off the back of the starter motor, this is where the fat cable from the battery goes anyway. If you have the battery in the engine bay take it from there, will be even close from a wiring perspective.

100W globes sounds nice but I've recently read that guys that have tried them ended up melting/damaging the plastic within the headlight itself. I've not seen it myself but apparently it's a square peg/round hole sort of thing.

I have also been told this so i might stay away from this. The relays should give the best power to the globes, with a good alignment should work well, hopefully.

You're making me keen again! What did you pay for the Narva relays?

I cant quite rember now but i think there only around $8 or so, the packets didnt have a price as i got them ordered in.

edit: great diagram! so for all the guys that haven't seen a circuit diagram since uni, you are drawing 12V directly from the alternator? seems unusual, so I've probably got it wrong. That'd mean you'd need a voltage regulator in series after the split?

This could be wrong, but this was my understanding. The alternator has to have a pole where it charges the battery, if you connect to this, its the same as connecting to the battery as its all just 12V and should be a decent sized line (alternators can chage at say 80 amps so has to be a decent sized wire there?) Anyway as i said before just go from the starter motor, or the battery

Cheers (ps spelling isn't my strong point ill try fix it up in a sec)

Edited September 27, 2006 by GTR1993

[GTR1993]

for the non-electrical engineers out there... will your circuit mean that the low beams will remian on when the high is triggered?

I dont think it will, ill try explaine. The wires that goto the H4 globe (mine are H4 i have read there are a few variations to the R32 head lights) there would be one ground pin, one +12V for low bean and one +12V for high beam. If you were to cut these wires you could use both +12v for low and high to turn on the relays, meaning that the lowbeam circuit that uses no relay will now only have a very minor current draw probably less then .5 amps. The high beam +12V will now also have a very small power draw, even though from the factory this uses a relay. So you can do 1 of 2 things, you can use a relay to turn on the new super duper relay you are using to power the high beams, or you could remove the factory relay, find the switching wire used for it, and use that to switch the new super duper relay on.

hope that makes sense

Cheers

[Bl4cK32]

[GTR1993]

That drawing is pro dude

yea thats exactly how i was saying, but mine didnt show the high and low on at same time.

Edited September 27, 2006 by GTR1993

[cowie165]

That pic is so good even I could follow it. Best part is using the markings on the relays to save me going crosseyed doing it myself.

I've found I need high and low, as the high beam just sprays light EVERYWHERE, which is great, but you then can see in front particularly well...

[Zman]

So my headlights have decided to malfunction again!!

This time the hi beams are jammed open. what i mean by that is everytime i switch on the headlights (low beams) the hi beams are also on, regardless of which position the hi beam switch is in.

Anyideas on whats causing this?

cheers guy.

[Adriano]

Either the relay or the switch, i think the switches are pretty common to go

[Zman]

where are these switches and how do i fix/replace them?

[Fixxxer]

I think there is a DIY thread in the Tutorial/FAQ section. I had similar issues with my headlights not coming on, or only one coming on and it was the switch. Find that thread and it gives you a step by step run through on how to fix it (by elongating the spring). Your alternative is to buy a secondhand switch assembly, for about 50-60 bucks from what I heard.

Some idiot had replaced one globe in my car with a 100W bulb rather than the 55W standard, which had, over time melted some wiring and kept melting fuses. I changed this back to a standard replacement globe and funny enough it was actually brighter. Going brighter doesn't mean you have to go up in Watts. You can buy 30% and 50% brighter bulbs at any auto parts store, they are still 55W bulbs, just use a different gas or something for brighter light. I'm happy with the brightness I now have, and it was only like $7 a bulb.

Fixxxer