Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

changing to billet custom cams now due to tommie not making larger ones

and am upgrading to a direct port nitrous kit instead of a single

also upgrading ignition to Pro comp with CDI boxes

once its running within 3-4 weeks i will post new hp & torque graph and will hit the track

we are also making customs arms for the IRS and bushes to help the car launch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135859-lnemup/page/3/#findComment-2581239
Share on other sites

changing to billet custom cams now due to tommie not making larger ones

and am upgrading to a direct port nitrous kit instead of a single

also upgrading ignition to Pro comp with CDI boxes

once its running within 3-4 weeks i will post new hp & torque graph and will hit the track

we are also making customs arms for the IRS and bushes to help the car launch.

Sounded like you needed the CDI with the spark not up to all that fuel.

Keen to see the on track result from such a beast.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135859-lnemup/page/3/#findComment-2581268
Share on other sites

the cams that are supposed to be in it was

270 @ 10.8 lift

but the ones in there are 260 @ 10.25 lift the supplier made a stuff up and i didnt check them before i got the head done

so the head had to come off again and i have to re do the Tappet clearances AGAIN what a headache.

The new cams will be around 280 @ 12.0mm lift

but i will have to see what is good for the combination.I still working out a exact set but i will post how i go.

The CDI boxes and new coils should hold up to 40 psi from what i am told .The 707rwhp dyno was done at 30 psi with poor ignition system and rich afrs

so hopefully i can making more power without pushing the tune.If i can make 750 ill be happy and just run the car at that and then if i get bored pump more boost into it.

i weighed the car and it weighs 2890 pounds with a full tank of fuel and nitrous so its not light but its not heavy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135859-lnemup/page/3/#findComment-2583183
Share on other sites

i weighed the car and it weighs 2890 pounds with a full tank of fuel and nitrous so its not light but its not heavy.

With the car around 1310kg and 700+hp at the wheels should be good for the low 9's with around the 145mph region.

Would be awesome to see a good old Rb25 doing those kinds of times... Can't wait for the results hope you sort out your CDI System. Keep us posted !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135859-lnemup/page/3/#findComment-2596295
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...