Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as the title says, there is a track day at Wakefield park on Saturday the 21st of October. Its just a no speed limit day, so its open to anyone and any car. It'll cost you $90 for the day and $40 if don't have a wakefield licence. These days are great fun and a good chance to see what you and your car are made of!!! You'll need full body clothing, as in long sleeve cotton shirt, jeans (or pants) and enclosed shoes. If you don't have a helmet they are avaliable to hire on the day for $10 with a $50 deposit. The track opens at 9am, but its always a good idea to get there a little early to sign up and get yourself organised.

I can't wait, its going to be such a good day. So who's interested? Its a Saturday, so most of you don't have 'work' as an excuse.....

Hope to see you there! :happy:

Meeting Place: Shell servo at EPIC

Time: 7am for a 7.15am leave...

People coming... (if i've not listed you, just post up that your going... :()

Frink

Bullet32

leech (maybe)

R34-GTT

Terminal

Supadan

Edited by Frink
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135932-track-day-wakefield/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 212
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

^^^ lol

Hey guys......I dont want to make a fuss with this but with us who are going, do you want to meet up and go together? :(

i was thinking the same thing. i reckon meet at the Shell servo at EPIC at around 7am for a 7.15am departure. by the time we drive there, sign on and remove all the 'loose' objects and stuff from our cars, it'll be just about 9am. so im thinking that should be the go. plus its a saturday, so im thinking it'll be busy at the track, so the earlier we arrive, the better.....

out of interest is there a BP servo with ultimate there ??? i would imagine if i did come i should be able to get up around the track and back on one tank but you never know

Im not sure but i dont think one tank will last the whole day?

And fill them there? I just wouldn't want fuel leaking in my boot.

You are required by law to have the container earthed whilst filling it. So no, you wouldn't fill them in your boot.

Just buy/borrow 2x 20L Jerry Cans, fill them with BP Ultimate or Shell Optimax Extreme (didn't get enough hard runs with the PFC Handcontroller in to check knock to test the latter - altho the car was just as responsive and got slightly more out of a tank 20-30km on the OptiExtreme) at the servo, stick them in your boot - securely. Drive to Wakefield - flog the shit out of your car, fill her up, flog some more, fill her up then head home worrying about just how little tread is left on your tyres.

:P:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...