Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a great day, cant wait to get my set up correct and new front tyres,bucket seat, brakes, boost, then i should be right lol. I was really happy that the newish STI and one of the evo's couldn't over take me on the straight, the corners well i wont mention how i was through them.

As for that f**kING rabbit.......suck shit that it got f**ked up and the birds ate it for the rest of the day, little peice of shit!!!

Anyway...had an awesome time and cant wait till im ready for the next one :rofl:

BTW, thanks for the helps taking the bar off and putting it back on guys, had my own pit crew :laugh:

  • Replies 212
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

actually i think i may have snapped one of my exhuast bolts again. my car is making a funny high pitched squeal when its on boost, but it hasn't lost anyway performance. i'll have it checked out next week...

the only decent damage done on the day i think was to one of the yellow evo's which ripped a tyre of his rim and scratched it up pretty bad. It was also making some strange noises after that almost as though he had warped a disc and his pads were rubbing and this is when he was just driving.

Woot i was the only one not to do any damage hehe :D

Well my front bar is farked, and i've snapped my air con fan i think thats what its called which is rubbing on the back of my FMIC. Also my brakes are screwed, I'm contemplating whether or not i should get GTR brakes??

EDIT: Here is how i drove for the rest of the day.

post-31654-1161507069.jpg

Sorry about the file being to big, i tried to make it smaller.

Edited by R3sp3ct

sorry to hear about the air con fan as well :D it did look like a tough drift pig though hehe :) from the little i know about the brakes unless you are after really big stopping power the standard 33 gts-t calipers should be fine just upgrade to slotted rotors and better pads/fluid. If they won't cut it and you have some money get the Brembo's from an R34 GTR mmm nice and big.

Maybe even these 8 pot's

http://www.justjap.com/parts_nbraking.htm

Well after going for a ride with luke i could not believe how good he stopped, if i hit my brakes as hard as he did i'd lock them up.....as seen on the first lap :D.

I'm thinking some massive slotted brakes would be awesome and thats why i think my car will be off the road for a while coz im going to save up for all these parts so next meeting ill be a little more competative.

haha going to track is very bad it makes us all go hmm

but what if i just had

8 pot calipers on the front and some decent 4 pots on the rear

slotted rotors

performance pads

adjustable coilovers

better sway bars

strut braces

etc etc etc

the list goes on. But if you have the $$$ all the best to you. you have a good amount of power as demonstrated get the braking and handeling sorted you will be out there with that blue evo 9 :D

i would imagine the gtr would beat it however driver does play a big part as demonstrated on the weekend...

Luke = good drive

Leigh = average driver

Keep in mind though the AWD will be a major help in maintaining traction and as such better times

Leigh = average driver? Dont blow your on whistle leigh, we all know you think youre god :)

GTR isnt really suited to Wakefield, it loses alot of its competitive edge due to the layout of the circuit. Its a short (low speed) circuit so the lower weight of the gtst gives it an advantage. But if you want a car that goes really quick around Wakefield, buy an Evo.

Edited by Amaru
Its a short (low speed) circuit so the lower weight of the gtst gives it an advantage.

The 32 GTR isn't heavier then the R33 GTST is it?

The reason i asked was im going to want a car that will get me the best traction/handling/speed. I think my car has the mods to do that i just need front wheels and brakes and my times should improve a fair bit.

It depends on what you really want do your research and find out whats the difference between the two....Im into drifting so the gtst was a natural choice (plus i was poor) I just recon that the gtst doesnt get a good enough rep, awsome rwd car, can hold its own when modded properly - the love of my life

The 32 GTR isn't heavier then the R33 GTST is it?

Its a good 100kg or so heavier... and alot of that weight is at the wrong end of the car :(

The GTR is a big car. Get it on a fast flowing track and it will show what it was made for. Get it on a low speed tight track and the results arent that great.

Well i did manage an unoffical time of 1.18.76 and a 1.19.00 with no suspensions mods, road tyres and not much power. The dodgy thing was i could only do a couple of hard laps before my tyres turned to gooo and i had to cool em down... Luke was getting 1.13's i think for most of the day not sure about Steve

Leigh = average driver? Dont blow your on whistle leigh, we all know you think youre god :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...