Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here's a thought... what about a stock GTST exhaust...

they are a 2.5" exhaust standard, and should have the exact same measurements as an NA one... only thing you might need to get made up may be a replacement as to the headers instead of front pipe..

i'm currently looking into this option. its also cheap =)

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for that stealth look but trying to get some more power, stick with the stock cat-back.

after all, its an NA car and won't respond to exhaust mods like a turbocharged car

that one of the dumbest things i have ever heard. i changed the cat back on my old magna and it made it a complete different car to drive. much more response, and much more top end.

and did full engine back exhaust and it resulted in about a 20% gain in power. on the stock exhaust it would choke at about 5500rpm, now it revs nicely up to the 7500rpm.

so you have dyno results to proce this 20% power claim?

i had an MA70 supra 3L non-turbo

went from stock to aftermarket exhaust and hardly noticed a difference

on my R32 turbo, noticed a HUGE difference as shown by an increase from 106rwkw to 132rwkw from exhaust and timing change

if its "one of the dumbest things you've ever heard" then you must have your head in the sand

yes an NA car will get more power with an xhaust but its won't givve the same power gains that you will get with a turbocharged car

So you have dyno results to prove this 20% power claim?

I had an MA70 supra 3L non-turbo

Went from stock to aftermarket exhaust and hardly noticed a difference

On my R32 turbo, noticed a HUGE difference as shown by an increase from 106rwkw to 132rwkw from exhaust and timing change

If its "one of the dumbest things you've ever heard" then you must have your head in the sand

Yes an NA car will get more power with an exhaust but it’s won't give the same power gains that you will get with a turbocharged car

That is true, turbo's will respond to exhausts more, with increases in power and with less lag etc. But an exhaust is one of the best things you can do for a lot of N/A cars (maybe not the supra then, though I wouldn’t know). I know on my skyline, from the factory 2" exhaust with 1 muffler (other one previously cut off) to a 2.5" PRESS BENT (though its a f**king good job) with a muffler and a resonator, my car (auto) was completely different to drive, rev's quicker, gained a little low-midrange, and heaps of top end (where before it died in the arse after ~ 5000rpm) it loves it to the limiter.

Maybe a compromise, with the stock exhaust with mufflers changed??

You could always paint your exhaust black (or charcoal mixed with brown ha-ha) as long as you have a standard muffler on it (i.e. no f**king cannon) cops wont notice or care. Its quiet, it looks normal, be it a little oversize but they wont know that, and if they do, its the same difference between putting a stock turbo exhaust onto it, its still bigger...

really though, they cant stop you from replacing your exhaust, exhausts don’t last forever, they need to be done, it was already on the care and since its sound you assumed it was stock!?

I really can’t see 99.999% of cops caring about a stock looking exhaust, esp. one without a tip (not that they can do anything about that)

Its really up to the driver, rules are meant to be broken, it's just up to you to decide if its worth the risk, and at the same time, if your cars quiet and you drive sensibly (esp. in a stockish looking car) I cant see you getting pulled over or harassed at all...

though I am in Tassie and its different than some of your police states, we're still fairly strict, I have a LOUD throaty exhaust (but you only hear it when the foot goes down) way darker than legal tint, lowered, with stock wheels, polished to a mirror, I keep my car clean, and im constantly on the lookout for anything and generally drive fairly softly (but we all have our days/moments).

And even when they see my car cruise past with nothing but a throb (I always spot them first and easy off) I never get any attention. But at the same time, if I got caught being stupid, im sure I would be pretty f**ked...

Edited by SKiT_R31

I've got a full CES custom job, looks as stock as a rock with twin tips and is good for 250rwkw....you've got to bend right up under the car to see it's a full 3" and well pushed up into every crevice to keep it out of sight. You get what you pay for with an exhaust, I'd definately go custom in the future as you just don't get the unwanted attention.

Picture.jpg

WazR32GTSt, this is for you, what sort of exausht did u put on your N/A skyline to add 30kw at the wheels???

i said "exhaust + timing"

i went from having severely retarted timing and stock exhaust to having 3" dump/front and 3" cat-back (Stock cat). also fixed up the timing back to normal 20deg BTDC for the auto ECU

that took me from 106rwkw to 132rwkw

ahh ok, well it its quite possible to get a N/A to 170kw @ wheels.

an NA V8 maybe.. not an NA 6

best i've seen is a mate of mine with an NA 300zx who has 155rwkw with a hell of a lot of mods...

as said above, i've got an rb20det for my 170rwkw with FMIC, 3" exhaust, 14psi, rb25 turbo, cams+gears (as far as engine mods go anyway)

its possible, trust me, get a r33, r32 what eva but the 2.5L throw on...exausht, extractors, CAI with pod, upgraded cams, throtle body, lightemd fly wheel, clutch and aftermarket ECU Tuned to all the mods.

that should give around 130 @ wheels minium, plsy u can always throw on 75HP of giggle gas on it, and that would throw it up, way up ^_^

its possible, trust me, get a r33, r32 what eva but the 2.5L throw on...exausht, extractors, CAI with pod, upgraded cams, throtle body, lightemd fly wheel, clutch and aftermarket ECU Tuned to all the mods.

that should give around 130 @ wheels minium, plsy u can always throw on 75HP of giggle gas on it, and that would throw it up, way up ^_^

it is easy possible to even get more than that... for instance, i know of a few bloody buick V67's (hardly a performance engine) that are pushin around 180RWKW...

look at engines like the L28 etc...

or for example what im looking at building up (after new job and loan clears). I dont know hows its going to turn out, but im aiming for ~ 150-160RWKW...

wont go into too much of the details of it, but im aiming for ~ 11.5:1/12:1 CR (depending on what 98ron BP ultimate can handle) RB25 VVT head on RB30 Block, maximum head porting and polish, matched intake plenum/runners, custom exaust/extractors, Stock cam, and aftermarket ECU with custom dyno tune. Usual lightweight gear (not sure how far ill go) Flywheel, lightweight single piece tailshaft, dont know about pistons - not keen on the rattle, etc.

i mean there will be a bit more to it than that, but thats the gist of things... if it doesnt make 150RWKW ill be surprised and its not really that serious of a build, heaps of daily drivability and response, nice economy when driven mild etc... Though im not soo much aiming for peak power, more for heaps of power/torque through the rev range, dont want to have to rev it too hard to make power (after reliability). - the point is, if i was to expand on that, i could easily pull a few more kw's out of it...

imo anything under 200RWKW isnt unrealistic when it comes to an N/A 6 cyl, it can be done and has been done many times, you just need the time, patiency, low blood pressure and $$$.

Once you start getting over 200RWKW you are dreaming a bit, or you are one rich muf*kr

Edited by SKiT_R31

skit_r31 sounds like a v.good build.. will be impressive to see how that goes.

some possible improvements may be an RB26 head with hex throttle bodies, and instead of forged pistons look into those hypereutic ones...

in terms of power i agree that realistically something around the 130-170rwkw is achieveable without nitrous, anything after that and you'll start looking at a higher rev limit and big dollars

my mate with the NA zed has a heavily modified machine..

head ported + polished

extractors

twin cats and twin exhaust

pod

larger intake pipes

larger throttle bodies (there's 2 of of them also...)

unichip

and more but i don't remember what else

155rwkw (manual trans)

that's a pretty decently modified NA machine..

all that's really left to do would be cams / gears which at best could see 170-180rwkw

and that's a 3L engine, not a 2.5L like the rb25de.. 500cc makes a huge difference

You can get a shift kit to make it a bit less sloppy on gear-change.

Decent exhaust, porting and cams...maybe something like the new e-manage ultimate to trim the fuel and increase timing and raise the rev limit.

They are NA, they wouldnt need half the things you mentioned. Also losing a lisence should be a lesson not to speed in the first place, wait until you get off your Ps, get a turbo and then start modding.

I dont like being a father figure here but it needed to be said

PS modding an NA skyline for speed is like trying to make a fat chick a ballerina...

PS modding an NA skyline for speed is like trying to make a fat chick a ballerina...

bang for buck wise that may be true, but a few of the people here myself included are simply trying to build a well balanced driveable car that handles well, and has slightly more power than standard whilst maintaining reliability and keeping maintenance costs down.

you are never going to make big power or fast 1/4 mile times with an NA (in reference to a GTST), nor are you going to make big power with a GTST (in reference to lets say a GTR), nor a GTR (lets exaggerate and say a Zonda).

and while your points may be valid and true, NA cars are the base people choose have and want to work with. what i'm saying is that i'm sure most people here know about the futility of making big HP with NA cars and dont need someone telling them otherwise... and that is as a polite f**k off as you'll ever get.

also keep in mind that some of the faster cars around a track are NA, so while the fat chick cant do ballet, i'm sure she can try and do just as well.

p.s - i do not condone fat chicks.

bang for buck wise that may be true, but a few of the people here myself included are simply trying to build a well balanced driveable car that handles well, and has slightly more power than standard whilst maintaining reliability and keeping maintenance costs down.

you are never going to make big power or fast 1/4 mile times with an NA (in reference to a GTST), nor are you going to make big power with a GTST (in reference to lets say a GTR), nor a GTR (lets exaggerate and say a Zonda).

and while your points may be valid and true, NA cars are the base people choose have and want to work with. what i'm saying is that i'm sure most people here know about the futility of making big HP with NA cars and dont need someone telling them otherwise... and that is as a polite f**k off as you'll ever get.

also keep in mind that some of the faster cars around a track are NA, so while the fat chick cant do ballet, i'm sure she can try and do just as well.

p.s - i do not condone fat chicks.

GOLD

its possible, trust me, get a r33, r32 what eva but the 2.5L throw on...exausht, extractors, CAI with pod, upgraded cams, throtle body, lightemd fly wheel, clutch and aftermarket ECU Tuned to all the mods.

that should give around 130 @ wheels minium, plsy u can always throw on 75HP of giggle gas on it, and that would throw it up, way up ^_^

But really why bother.. The loud exhaust note etc.. Is it really worth 130rwkw. 130rwkw is still damn slow and quite boaring.

Id simply fit up an exhaust from a turbo model, do the cam gears, pod with a nice cai and partition then tuned to suit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...