Jump to content
SAU Community

H.i.d. Group Buy Australian Seller

bankids

By bankids,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

bankids Proficient

bankids

Posted
Posted

FIRST $250 WILL BE DONATED TO SKYLINESAUSTRALIA FORUM.

Supplier Lookee.com.au

Brand Supervision

All the specs please see the pics below.

price is $260 delivered by express within australia

minimum 10 people

organiser BEN

list

khunjeng

Passage31 *2

I've organised more than 100 kits in this forum so far so good..

just needs $50 deposit

ENDS IN 2 WEEKS ABOUT 15th of OCT

26_112_9296e3014015f20.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136346-hid-group-buy-australian-seller/
Share on other sites
bankids Proficient

bankids

Posted
  • Author
Posted

depends how good u want the installation.

u can just put them anywhere in the engine bay or u can have a proper installation with the ballasts hidding under the headlights.

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted (edited)

Can these just plug directly in to replace where the orginal bulb is?

Extra stuff hanging out the back doesn't bother me but is it otherwise a simple plug in thing.

How bright are these compared to the original bulbs?

What frequency is the best or what frequency are these at this price?

Does 8000-10000kHz give more reflection off fluorescent signs?

Edited by Edge
bankids Proficient

bankids

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the installation itself is simple p&p but to put the ballasts properly is a hard job, sometimes u have to take off the bumper.

they are very very bright..

sry it's not about frequency, it's the colour temperature.. u can see the pic in the first post and see the differences of colours.

Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted (edited)

it states here that these are 9000k variants

3.jpg

These are great looking but does the 10,000k add any tinge of blue to it. Because from so close up you cant see the reflection it causes until you are from a distance ie incoming traffic that see's this car coming towards them. hope that makes sense, just want to clarify if 10k is much bluer, not at all or slightly.

Edited by Nozila
Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted (edited)

I mean H4 with HID Low and HID High single chamber version, according to the advertising should be $260 right. If so I'm in on this, still thinking about the difference between K - wish I could find out the colour spectrum being put out by these Xenon lights at 4300K or 6000K, Perhaps you can advise which is better for contrast at night, I haven't found a colour spectrum output graph for Xenon discharge yet.

OK here is a rambling piece to follow, after reading several sources online such as osram, aerovisions, spectra of xenon gas discharge, xenon-bulbs etc.

5500K between mercury vapour and metal halide, seems to be the best even mix of xenon, metal halides and mercury etc. for the best daylight simulating light at a guess.

Daylight simulating triphosphor fluorescent tubes made by osrtam are 6000K. Cool Daylight fluorescent tubes are at 4000K. In terms of depth and colour perception at night the higher frequencies seem better, but from my own testing it seems yellow light allows more simple contrast but less detailed contrast. So in terms of being bright enough to take advantage of colour perception and to gain maximum detail and depth perception the 6000K seems to be the best.

Likely to be more mercury in the bulbs, meaning more pressure and heat in the bulbs at 6000K, is that a good or bad thing for longer life?

Why does yellow light cut through rain and fog better than white? Since I have seperate fog lights I can get stronger intensity long(higher frequency) wavelengths of light. Also 6000K is said to have a higher circadian value for keeping you awake. It is also more comforatblet o view this light at high intensities, so I have to wonder whether for the same lumens whether it is more comfortable on the eyes to use 4300K lights at night as when you look further away it will appear less weak at the lower intensity reflections, so this is why yellow light seems to be easier to make out simple contrast but gives less detailed contrast, as the eye is used to more yellow light in low light conditions.

Toward the blue end of the green spectrum the eyes are more sensitive at night, but we are talking about subjects under illumination and this is why yellow end of the green spectrum is giving more depth.

Under very low light you will be able to see newspaper better in blue end of the spectrum, but see the black tarmac better with more light toward the yellow end of the green spectrum no matter what. Though to see detail such as read newspapers in low light you will be straining in the yellow end of the green spectrum.

So it is that if the light is brighter then 6000K is better but if the light is softer then 4000K is better even if considering both are "white light ie. containing all colours".

In conclusion 4300K is the best choice for more natural illumination for a low brightness scenario. While 6000K is best choice for a high brightness scenario.

Since someone said these bulbs are really bright the 6000K should be better in terms of being the most comfortable for the largest range of distances and produce less eye strain.

Edited by Edge
bankids Proficient

bankids

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nozila ur pic looks like 6000k

to Edge

the single chamber hi/low is 100 over normal ones due to the the motor which is driving the chamber forward and backward to switch hi/low

the 4300 is the best choice of overall condition of weather but most of the people not only like it's brightness also it's colour. if u buy the 4300k there's milky white colour...

u can come to my place and have a look at the 4300k 5000k 6000k 8000k and special colour........

and i have a small fish tank to demo they are water profed

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...