Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Tech Turbo Back For Series 1 Stagea


LiQuid IcE
 Share

Recommended Posts

anybody?

Okay here's option 2.

It currently has a full turbo back exhaust on it. Made by EXHAUST TECHNOLOGY in South Australia who are to my knowledge the best in Adeliade.

It's Full turbo back with mandrel bends (According to reciept it is semi-stainless) with a 76mm Hi-FLOW CAT (Funky looking thing which in my opinion looks like a catco worth $400)

Finished off with an oval muffler with chrome tip (need to check brand). Also has a resonator halfway thru.

Have the reciept for it with a total of $1520 paid for it. It's top quality.

You can listen to it as it's still on the car. Very quiet at idle.

Ill sell it for $1100 plus your stock exhaust and I'll pay to have the exhaust installed on your car if in victoria.

I'll organise pic's of it asap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey it doesnt do neither of those things in my opinion. its not loud and definately doesnt drone. I'll take some pics, but you can come have a listen to the sound anytime as its still on the car :D

Willing to take reasonable offers!

I'll try take some photos now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PICS!

the dump/front pipe has "advanced" stamped on it. SO maybe it was prefabricated and not made by Exahust tech, its a different colour to the rest of the exhaust.

The exhaust is in 2 pieces.

-piece one includes: dump/front pipe

-piece 2 includes: HiFlo cat, resonator and rear muffler+tip all welded as 1 piece.

post-11124-1160365569.jpg

post-11124-1160365605.jpg

post-11124-1160365720.jpg

post-11124-1160365787.jpg

post-11124-1160365822.jpg

post-11124-1160365859.jpg

post-11124-1160366025.jpg

post-11124-1160366060.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you in melbourne?

might sound like a stupid question but the plates on the stag are SA.

if in melb, where? I want to listen to the exhaust is all.

hey yup I'm in melbourne. Bought (Swapped) the car through SAU from a guy in SA... the rego ran out a few months ago. But we can't afford to re-register it until we sell our 4-door R33.

Anyways It came with intercooler/exhaust/wheels... The wheels and cooler are going on my car but the exhaust doesnt fit :thumbsup:

I'm in Endeavour Hills. You can come have a listen anytime. Just give me warning to fit the intercooler pipeing back on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.
    • Hi all, so I bought a very low kms 2019 Q60s in Nov 2022 and have been driving it stock for 17 months. The power from the VR30DETT has been a little scary as these cars did not come with a LSD. Although the ECU does well with compensating the lack of LSD by using automatic braking on different wheels when there is lost of traction etc, it does not really give me much confidence to push the car harder. Further to that, the car feels quite boaty especially around sharper corners or roundabouts - it would seem like the wheels are lifting on one side. These engines are also very prone to heat soak as the heat exchanger is tiny. I felt this during the heat wave in WA over summer even in normal driving. Gear shifting in the Q60 is also something that I hated - it's quite harsh at low speeds especially in traffic.  I recently purchased a set of f&r sway bars, rear diff brace and a heat exchanger from Z1 in US. Here are my thoughts 1) Rear diff brace - no more wheel hop when accelerating quickly. wheel spin still present but manageable comparing to before. Gear shifts are now smoother, you can still tell its shifting etc but you dont feel the harshness. I would highly recommend this mod, and it should still be on sale at Z1 at the moment. 2) Sway bar - there are 2 settings for this F - 114%/165% increase in stiffness over stock and R - 138%/214% increase in stiffness over stock. Currently I am on the stiffer settings. The car feels very planted. Due to the weather over here I have not been able to test if i need to reduce the stiffness. So far it's much more comfortable to drive over stock as you dont feel like your car is lifting up and in fast turns you can control the car a lot better while turning left and right in quick succession.  3) HX - the Z1 HX has a much higher capacity and surface area (up to 200% or something). Again with the cooler weather it's a little hard to tell. I went with the Z1 HX due to the price, size and colour (black). You can't see the HX through the front bumper. There is a cheaper brand but it was smaller and the rest were more expensive which i didnt think was worth the extra since I won't track this car much at all. All 3 mods were easy to install, all plug and play. Note of caution, the front bar needed to come off for the HX to be installed.  
    • A is the HICAS CU.  As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom?   Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else. Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so  you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.
    • They didn't. This is their comments; I'm not sure why they don't have the OEM specs. 
×
×
  • Create New...