Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I searched but couldnt find anything.

At what power output does the standard fuel delivery system of the R33 GTSt S1 max out?

I'm spending a few grand on power in a couple months and it should put me at the 200-210rwkw mark, and the last thing I want is to have something cause the car to lean out at high power and damage something.

So I was thinking of also upgrading the fuel pump and FPR, maybe the injectors. Would it be worth it?

ECU will be piggybacked by an SAFC II (I understand the drawbacks and benefits of these so this is not the topic of discussion) - so what brands of FPR + injector types are too extreme for even the SAFC to adjust to?

Would the standard fuel system be sufficient?

Any help would be nice!

Edited by Mike_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136627-standard-r33-fuel-delivery/
Share on other sites

for 200-210 no need

stock injectors, rails, fpr are fine

just get a larger flowing pump

gtr32/33/34 should be fine

nismo should be fine

stay away from walbro

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

Hi bj. If your concerned about the cost of new injectors as i was all you need to do is to

purchase some red top injectors from an S15. I had to buy two set's of four, but the cost

was less than half over new nismo injectors. Try some Silvia web sites. I found mine on

Silvia club of NSW. Ive been told they are good for around 250 ish and thats without a

fuel pressure reg. Hope this helps. :yes:

for 200-210 no need

stock injectors, rails, fpr are fine

just get a larger flowing pump

gtr32/33/34 should be fine

nismo should be fine

stay away from walbro

Thanks for that

I guess my biggest concern is that my fuel pump or FPR might fail on me and I'll start running lean without noticing.

I guess the SAFC would give me this info so I'll just have to keep my eye on it :yes:

Cheers!

Hi bj. If your concerned about the cost of new injectors as i was all you need to do is to

purchase some red top injectors from an S15. I had to buy two set's of four, but the cost

was less than half over new nismo injectors. Try some Silvia web sites. I found mine on

Silvia club of NSW. Ive been told they are good for around 250 ish and thats without a

fuel pressure reg. Hope this helps. :yes:

Yeah S15 injectors would be my choice if I go down that path. If you do decide to get them make sure you get the RED ones NOT the purple ones. Some S15's come with one, some with the other, from memory.

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

If you go for a highflow turbo you should get a Power FC, Z32 AFM, and injectors. Your tune will be greatly compromised if you don’t.

Standard pump will techinically be good up to 230KW but rarely doesnt (guess coz their age) You can try putting a relay on the fuel pump so it recieves a full 13.98-14 V rather than the 11.8 ir recieves with the stock setup. Make sure you dyno it to make sure it works

210 will be hard to get without rasing boost above/around 12 which inturn raises AFM to above 5V causing R&R

Nismo FPR would be best as boltfit straight in. Other systems usually require adaptors.

I'm runninng Z32 pump, Nismo FPR with stock injectors and put out 200. My AFM peaks at 4.9V so I'm at my limit with 11Psi boost (R33 S1)

whats wrong with walbro?

i bought a bosch fuel pump only to discover they dont sit right in fuel tanks and swapped it for a walbro

had no dramas

They do sit right in fuel tanks. I've fit many of these to many different models and you can run the tanks down til after the light comes on before it effects driveability. Download a Walbro flow chart and compare it to the Bosch flow rate. You'll see where your money has gone.

The Walbro pump pumps 250l/hour at 3 bar (Yay, that covers idle) wait til you need 65psi of rail pressure....that soon drops off to 150l/hour. The Bosch pump will pump 235l/hour right up to 5 bar (73.5psi) .

Thanks for that

I guess my biggest concern is that my fuel pump or FPR might fail on me and I'll start running lean without noticing.

I guess the SAFC would give me this info so I'll just have to keep my eye on it :)

Cheers!

Which is why with any performance car that is tuned for near max power you should have a power run done every so often to check up on afr's. I know of some that get one done every service. :nuke:

Which is why with any performance car that is tuned for near max power you should have a power run done every so often to check up on afr's. I know of some that get one done every service. :D

Yeah I'd say that's a good idea!

Even so I think I'll end up going the route of a nismo FPR and a GTR pump, but It's going to depend on money in the end.

Cheers for the help guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...