Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

;) i need some help in buying two skylines. one skiline is for my little bro who will be on he's p's.

and the other is for me for i dont realy care on the power but i dont mind the kick.

iam after r33's but not sure on the years.

is there any skyline r33s with turbo that a p plater can drive in victoria?

is it better to buy off a car dealer in australia were i can test it out etc. or import them througth a company?

.iam very mix up on which is best to spend more and have less worries or the cheaper way?

i have been trying to do the research and i been greating just crap in information and verations of r33s

and that the r32s are better

thanks guys

dave

:wave::):):huh:

;)

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lbfalcon maybee you should come to Victoria before you start throwing the laws around. That law wont be in place till next year and after the NSW Death Toll on P plater Drivers theres a chance it may never come in... but for now you can drive turbo cars in Victoria the only problem is Power to weight ratio.

P platers can drive R32, R33 not sure about R34 though having 206kw.. but i have seen a fair few P platers driving them around.

sweet thanks

it saves my little bro getting the car inpounded

so i will buy stock for him

thanks guys

a stock R33 is over the power to weight limit. therefor a p-plater in victoria cannot drive one legally. end of story.

lbfalcon maybee you should come to Victoria before you start throwing the laws around. That law wont be in place till next year and after the NSW Death Toll on P plater Drivers theres a chance it may never come in... but for now you can drive turbo cars in Victoria the only problem is Power to weight ratio.

P platers can drive R32, R33 not sure about R34 though having 206kw.. but i have seen a fair few P platers driving them around.

You might want to read his post properly before you tell him not to 'throw laws around'.

He is 100% spot on. NO factory turbo R33 can be driven by a victorian p-plater. They are over the power to weight limit. period.

i think i will just buy him a stock none turbo to save him getting pulled over all the time

but he can allways put one on later any way

it will be safer for him any way

thanks

R32 turbo's are legal to drive on P's as far as I know but still wouldnt be reccomended as a first car.

Don't by a non-turbo expecting to turbocharge it later, you'l regret it. Better to sell it and buy a turbo model.

lbfalcon is correct. R33's are over the power to weight ratio. I was pulled over for it when I was on my P's.

if your getting a R33 get a Series 2, have ABS and air bag..plus more importantly looks more modern....

try going for 40th aniversary model and Ho...forgot to tell you, if you follow the skyline scene the R33 value has plummeted......i mean gone down like mad.......so great time to buy....

got GTST S2 for 16500 (4 months ago).....and love it...

:(

i think the r33 is a much better GT car than the R32 and silvia.

some one sent me a pm about buying and told me to go for the 1996 models

i dont mind the R32's but i rather a new car because i'm driving a '90 EA falcon S pack atm

but i pre had a VL witch was a dream untill it blowen up on the freeway

ps i wasn't speeding lol dam lemon

made grate juice stanes on the road tho :(

but i'm not sure what R33 i want

eg... turbo, non turbo...

btw do the R33 come with semi/automatic?

if your getting a R33 get a Series 2, have ABS and air bag..plus more importantly looks more modern....

try going for 40th aniversary model and Ho...forgot to tell you, if you follow the skyline scene the R33 value has plummeted......i mean gone down like mad.......so great time to buy....

got GTST S2 for 16500 (4 months ago).....and love it...

>_<

i think the r33 is a much better GT car than the R32 and silvia.

ABS is an option....its not standard on S2's

lbfalcon maybee you should come to Victoria before you start throwing the laws around. That law wont be in place till next year and after the NSW Death Toll on P plater Drivers theres a chance it may never come in... but for now you can drive turbo cars in Victoria the only problem is Power to weight ratio.

P platers can drive R32, R33 not sure about R34 though having 206kw.. but i have seen a fair few P platers driving them around.

you may wanna learn your laws before you try correct him also...

R33's are ILLEGAL to drive. the p platers you see driving them, are driving them ILLEGALLY.

The R33s are newer = better.

The only reason why some consider R32 better is cos they are smaller (crappier too ;)) car :bunny:

comments like these shit me and the amount of slurs coming from r33 owners on this forum suprises me.

Not everyone wants to follow the crowd like a tool and buy the cheapest S1 burgandy r33. :O

if you follow the skyline scene the R33 value has plummeted......i mean gone down like mad.......so great time

A big mystery as to why the r33 are dropping price ;)

r33's are illegal for p-platers but they still tend to drive them. Although with the new p-plate laws next year the cops may get more strict on the power/weight law.

I suggest to look into an r32 if he would like to be legal.

Well maintained r32's have been floating around 13-15k dollar value for many years and havent had any major decline as of yet.

Good luck in your search :(

- Patrick

comments like these shit me and the amount of slurs coming from r33 owners on this forum suprises me.

Not everyone wants to follow the crowd like a tool and buy the cheapest S1 burgandy r33.

how is your comment any better than his?

The amount of R33 bashing from R32 owners on this site is the real joke.

But how dare the R33 owners argue back and defend their choice of car... ;)

how is your comment any better than his?

The amount of R33 bashing from R32 owners on this site is the real joke.

But how dare the R33 owners argue back and defend their choice of car... ;)

fair enough i lashed out cause im sick of hearing all the slander towards the r32's

If the r33's would want to argue at least put some evidence as to why they are crap. I wouldnt have over-reacted if the poster at least stated his reason as to why.

The original poster seems to be now deciding over both models and a comment like that wouldnt be helping. So why dont i post a comment worth the exact value as the slander in regards to the r32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...