Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How do I know If my Cam Angle Sensor is In right position?

Is there a way of checking it?

Just wondering as my CAS has been moved a few times and I am still not 100% sure that its in the right position , If theres anyone outhere that could help would be much appreciated....

I have searched about this topic and most of the replies are unclear.

Thx In advance :nuke::)

You need a timing light for starters you can buy them from autobarn type shops. Then you need to connect the 2xpower leads to your battery and the third lead goes onto number one HT lead that connects the your spark plug. Number one cylinder is at the front of the engine IE: closest to the front of the car. Make sure you hook this up the right way, there should be an arrow on the connector for the light indicating which way round it should be hooked on. Once its all connected up get a appropriate spanner to loosen the bolts on the CAS just enough so it can e rotated but not so much as it will turn by itself. Next start the engine and point the timing light down onto the crank pulley. There will be a series of marks on the timing cover behind the pulley with numbers on it IE:15BTDC,10BTDC,5BTDC,TDC, etc. There is a corresponding mark on the pulley itself that when you shine the flashing timing light on it, it will point at one of the marks on the timing cover. With the car idling twist the CAS until the mark lines up with 15BTDC. Then tighten up the CAS and recheck it.

Good luck hope i helped

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

I have done this already , to find that the timing mark was was fluctuating and was unclear how to stop this I'm pretty sure that theres a way of making the mark stay at one point this is my main concern! :D:no:

could just be an idling problem. make sure you're at operating temp when doing this and check all idle related components are working properly. go through and search the DIY section on how to fix these yourself.

  • 1 year later...
ok from what i am aware of, full clock wise is default position... just fixed my rough idling r33 and now she sits at 650rpm just perfect!

i could be wrong but it is my understanding that most skyline's should idle much higher then that. more like up around 800-850

as above

the cas controls that base timing. it should be at 15deg BTDC which is usually about in the middle of its range of movement..

i think u just must have typed the wrong thing. The CAS does not affect base timing. it affects ignition timing.

theres a sticker under your bonnet that tells you what idle should be. i think it's 700 +/- 50 from memory

mine idles at 700.

edit: it's 650 +/- 50

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
    • Dashcams Australia (13/05/25) captured JDMHSE (Vic plate) being a right tosser. 
    • Wish someone would start a racing series for Group A replica cars, a bit like Touring Car Masters but for 1985 onwards and not grandpa's falcon and/or Monaro. I know they race in some historic class but that's for original cars, no replicas allowed.
×
×
  • Create New...