Jump to content
SAU Community

Which R33 Gts-t Would You Get?

shoebox

By shoebox,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Which R33 GTS-T would you get?  

35 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay here's the problem: I have shortlisted 2 R33 GTS-25Ts, 1 sedan, 1 coupe, and both have auto transmissions.

Car #1 (sedan)

Faults:

1) Rear seat belts clips are facing the wrong direction. Seat belts look too new for 5 year old.

2) Air con vents don't close fully.

3) Left side mirror doesn't fold in.

4) HICAS diagnostics show an error code of #21: Vehicle Speed Sensor not present. (Could it be because the speed limiter on the ECU was removed?)

5) Alarm doesn't work sometimes.

6) Car steering wheel pulls to the left even on a straight road. But, it doesn't vibrate even at 100km/h.

Note: The log books are missing! All minor maintenance such as oil changes are supposedly done by the owner himself. Major servicing such as replacement of timing belt done at a non-nissan service centre.

Car modifications:

Nismo speedometer, Turbo Timer, D2 adjustable suspension, Spitfire coils, exhause changed from turbo-back, ECU changed and car tuned on a dyno.

Edit: Dyno results here:

dynographnn1.th.jpg

Auto sedan going for 12k (or 11.5k w/o the D2 suspensions).

Car #2 (coupe)

Faults:

1) Left side mirror doesn't fold in.

2) Air con not working (apparently, it needs gas).

3) Small dent and scratch on left side of car.

4) Boot doesn't open with the key.

5) Right front speaker not working.

6) A bit of black smoke present when revving engine at neutral.

7) Spare tyre area might have been repaired.

8) Transmission slips a bit.

9) No alarm system at all.

10) Not really a fault, but there's no turbo timer installed.

Car modifications: Apparently, it hasn't been modified before and everything is stock.

Going for 11.5k.

I can tell that Car #1 is better maintained then #2. Which one would you get, and why?

I'm torn between these two options... what would it cost to repair them? :(

Edited by shoebox
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136783-which-r33-gts-t-would-you-get/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

None keep looking.

If you are looking for a Skyline with log books, fat chance. These are 10+yr old imported cars, most don't come with log books from Japan to begin with.

Sounds like you may be a novice at this, may be a good idea to take a car, you are interested in buying, to a good mechanic to check it over for you.

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted (edited)

id pick 1 because the gearbox doesnt slip, $500 is nothing really since you said the gearbox slips in the other. i have a nice manual 4 door you can buy off me for 16.9k, its immaculate s2 wif 85000klm :( (shameless plug)

Edited by toffy
shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yea, i'm new to this (it's my first car actually!), and i'm intending to take car #1 it to a mechanic maybe next week.

I can understand why #2's bad, but why not #1? I don't think the repairs will be expensive, will it?

By the way, dyno graph for car #1 is below.

dynographnn1.th.jpg

I was *this* close to buying car #1 until i came here.. ^_^"

Edited by shoebox
Konrad Grand Master

Konrad

Posted
Posted

I dont think #1 sounds that bad... that power rating seems ok considering the mods so sounds like a healthy engine, dont write it off yet get it checked out by a mechanic.

Only problem is the idea of an auto, dont wanna buy one then regret it later on..

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Car #1 (sedan)

Faults:

4) HICAS diagnostics show an error code of #21: Vehicle Speed Sensor not present. (Could it be because the speed limiter on the ECU was removed?)

6) Car steering wheel pulls to the left even on a straight road. But, it doesn't vibrate even at 100km/h.

These two points are pretty major. One may think number 6 could only be an alignment, but it could also be the HICAS playing up. Causing the rear end to be "floaty" and majorly diminishing the handling. R33's are in abundance, why bother buying someone elses problems when you can find a clearner example for the same price :angry:.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

there's no such thing as "cheap" and "good" :)

I vote for keep looking, and keep saving. 12k won't get you a good 33, you'll end up having issues with it and spend more in maintaining the thing I guarantee.

Don't worry about log books, use careful judgement to evaluate whether the cars appear to have been looked after. Neither of those cars excite me at all, but then I was more interested in spending up to $20k on a mint example (and loving it :D). My car didn't have log books but a careful inspection by me and a 5 page report by State Roads pretty much guaranteed it had nothing to hide.

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

I agree, keep looking.

I looked around for months before I found mine. If you're not sure, then its probably not the right one. When I saw mine, it was perfect. Looked like a brand new car (both the engine and interior)

Thats what you're looking for.

Keep in mind, some repairs can be more costly than you expect. I looked at one that only needed its front bumper repaired. Got a panel beater friend to have a look, and he told me that with the brackets that were missing and the work that needed doing, it would cost over $1000. Too much for just a front bumper.

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted (edited)

I paid nearly 18 grand for my car back in April and so far nothing major has gone wrong (only needed to replace bushes that cost 70 or so bucks after a few months). The car has now done tad over 53,000 Kms and Im very happy with it!

I did nearly make the mistake of paying around 15 K for a car that had an oil leak and a faulty seat.

Keep looking and dont be afraid of paying extra if the car is perfect.

Edited by Sir-D
Link Proficient

Link

Posted
Posted
there's no such thing as "cheap" and "good" :wave:

I vote for keep looking, and keep saving. 12k won't get you a good 33, you'll end up having issues with it and spend more in maintaining the thing I guarantee.

I disagree - i picked up mine for 11k and apart from a dirty aac valve the car is spotless

There are heaps and heaps on carsales around 12-14k which have been on there for a good 6 months - a lot of owners are getting quite desperate to sell

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm~ yea, i agree that both cars aren't exactly very good...

I'm sending the sedan for an inspection at a workshop though. Hopefully nothing big comes up, but I'm not very optimistic about the HICAS.

I've just found a 13.5k auto coupe which the owner says is in excellent condition (don't they all!)... maybe I'll take a look at that one ^_^

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted
I agree, keep looking.

I looked around for months before I found mine. If you're not sure, then its probably not the right one. When I saw mine, it was perfect. Looked like a brand new car (both the engine and exterior/interior)

Thats what you're looking for.

thats exactly what i did :rant: , mine is the tidiest gtst in my state imo :P .... i must admit theyre hard to sell though, at 16.9 k i dont think mine is dear for a s2 that IS faultless :rant: i havent even had 1 person look at it yet though :rant: .... not even a phone call :P

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
thats exactly what i did :rant: , mine is the tidiest gtst in my state imo :P .... i must admit theyre hard to sell though, at 16.9 k i dont think mine is dear for a s2 that IS faultless :rant: i havent even had 1 person look at it yet though :rant: .... not even a phone call :P

Wow, that is quite steep actually (at least to me). What year is it, and where're you located? Any mods?

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted
Wow, that is quite steep actually (at least to me). What year is it, and where're you located? Any mods?

lol,you get what you pay for :). too far away for you to look at mate, its in taz. its got a few mods, 18in wheels , factory manual 4d, 96 or 97... avatar pic<<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...