Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey!

:( Err, problem after problem getting anoying anyways if anyone can help me it'd be great!

The drivers side window has been playing up for a couple of weeks now, have to push/pull the button for the window to go up and down a couple of times before it will actually do it, now the window won't move at all I think it is the motor for the electric windows but I'm not too sure would I be right, or could it be something else?

I know the fuse is fine, I've checked that and the passanger side window works anyway and there is only one fuse for both the windows.

Also, what model skylines will have the same electric window motor?

If anyone has any for sale, please do let me know. Car is a 1993 GTS-T 2 Door Coupe

Thank you very much!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136792-power-window-problem/
Share on other sites

No guarantees, but I had a similar problem when I first got my car, cleaned the contacts, and it's been trouble free for the past 2 years.

You might as well try it first, before you spend $$ on something that you may not need.

Thats true, thanks for that!

i've got the same problem, in the meantime if it gets stuck down (mine randomly moved before i disconnected it) if you bash the motor with a wrench while someone lifts the window it'll go up.

lol - fair enough I had to disconected the motor so I could get my window up then placed a couple of metal rods in there so the window can't be pulled down, I tell ya' its impossible which is good.

Hopefully its just the contacts like Grant said be fixed tomorrow whatever the problem may be I hope.

lol - fair enough I had to disconected the motor so I could get my window up then placed a couple of metal rods in there so the window can't be pulled down, I tell ya' its impossible which is good.

Hopefully its just the contacts like Grant said be fixed tomorrow whatever the problem may be I hope.

OK I have the same problem as my window was stuck up. I by-passed the master window switch to see if the window motor was shot. Sure enough I used a battery from another car and by-passed it and the window worked leaving evidence my window motor worked. 2nd I checked the fuse and it was good. The only other thing it could be was the master window switch. I tryed one from a 300zx and it didn't work, so my next shot is the 240sx too see if that works. What a bloody annoying f****g window problem.

Edited by Gt25 NYC
OK I have the same problem as my window was stuck up. I by-passed the master window switch to see if the window motor was shot. Sure enough I used a battery from another car and by-passed it and the window worked leaving evidence my window motor worked. 2nd I checked the fuse and it was good. The only other thing it could be was the master window switch. I tryed one from a 300zx and it didn't work, so my next shot is the 240sx too see if that works. What a bloody annoying f****g window problem.

That post confused me, but if you haven't already done so, pull the switch apart, and clean/sand the metal contacts on it.

I had a similar issue but my problem was even worse.

Not only was the switch unit faulty, it was faulty such that the switch was always stuck on the "wind down" mode - this in turn kept on feeding electric current to the motor thereby burning out the motor.

I had to get a new motor AND switch unit which cost me nearly $400.

Good luck~!

OK I have the same problem as my window was stuck up. I by-passed the master window switch to see if the window motor was shot. Sure enough I used a battery from another car and by-passed it and the window worked leaving evidence my window motor worked. 2nd I checked the fuse and it was good. The only other thing it could be was the master window switch. I tryed one from a 300zx and it didn't work, so my next shot is the 240sx too see if that works. What a bloody annoying f****g window problem.

My g/f's 32 has the exact same problem.

The passenger side window was stuck down. I put 12V across the motor and the window shot up straight away.

Anyway, I too have already cleaned the contacts on the switch, and pulled out the "power window amp" little black box under the drivers door trim, ripped that apart and resoldered all the joints with no joy.

Window is now stuck up. Drivers side meanwhile works fine.

Kinda stuck on how to fix this thing now. Replace the amp? I dunno.

I'm trying to fix the problem at the moment, you know the black 12V amp thats inside the drivers door, when I go to put the window up or down it makes a click sound, does this mean its fine or faulty?

Well, after plugging at it all day, I've now found the problem I think.

One brush on the motor fell off, a part about 1-2mm stopped the whole window from working :D Now, I just have to find a Auto-Eleci to fix the problem for me.

Thanks for everyones help btw!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...