Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been having some issues on my gtr with trying to get the pedal hard at the start of the stroke. I have bled the system but for about the first 1/4 it seems to be soft. I know I need a master cylinder stopper to firm up the end of the stroke. Master cylinder moves about 3mm at the end of the stroke.

Is this the lines expanding since their 17 years old or the fluid compressing or something to do with the booster or am I doing something wrong? I know how to bleed brakes btw.

how much pad material do you have? how thick are the rotors? worn pads/rotors will give you a little bit of softness at the start of the travel.

Has it ever been hard?

We are discussing a similar thing in this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2548068

And I'm wondering if most skylines are like this but I don't know how to change it yet.

I've changed my pads recently to Bendix Ultimates in front and Winmax rears

HEAPS better for braking but i now notice that 1st pump, stops of course and pretty well, but if i pump 1st then brake with the 2nd push, it's super hard to press and much better.

I haven't bleed for about a year so hopefully that's all it is.

Anyone else have that?

(and yeah, noticed the 3 thread thing now too)..haha

The pads are new but the disks are alittle worn. The car stops fine but I didn't know if I can make the pads take up earlier. I might have a look at the adjusting rod if it has one first and fit the stopper to the master cylinder then get back to you all. There is pressure in the line initially but it seem spungy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...