Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Friday night I tried to avoid an accident and ended up spinning and hitting a gutter, thank god it was at a reasonably low speed. The other car also hit the gutter but didnt damage anything and just drove away. What has happened to my car is the wheel was twisted. being the unlucky person i am the wheel wasnt buckled, part of the rear wheel assembly was twisted. I spent all day yesterday trying to pull the twisted part off. For those who know the rear wheel area, the part twisted is the triangle shaped part. I plan to try and find a wrecked 96 S2 33, an replace the part and see if anything else is ok. What I need help is

-does anyone have a car I can take this part off?

-does anyone know if this part is the same of other models?

-has anyone had the same problem? and what did they do?

-how much would it cost to just get the professionals to do the work?

Thanks, any help will be much appreciated

Also here are pics.....does anyone know how to take off the part in the firt pic? i un done the nut but it wont come off. Does anyone know what to do?

post-30446-1160366136.jpg

post-30446-1160366158.jpg

post-30446-1160366177.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137875-twisted-suspension/
Share on other sites

you need to bang it out, or even better use a ball joint seperator (looks like a big fork).

the triangle bit you are after is called the "lower control arm" this will help when you are ringing around trying to get one. they may be other pieces that are damaged too, but not immediatly obvious to the naked eye :thumbsup:

Ouch.....

The part in question is called the lower control arm. I'd take it to a suspension specialist that way you can get the car realigned and they can check for other damaged components (ie that tie rod looks a little bent imo but could be the angle of the photo).

Also here are pics.....does anyone know how to take off the part in the firt pic? i un done the nut but it wont come off. Does anyone know what to do?

bent lower arm (triangle shape bit). possibly damage to other components such as HICAS rack, tie rod ends (bad news is the ball joint part of that appears to be part of the upright!), possible cracks to upright and damage to upper arms/bolts/bushes (they look OK in the pic, but they should be checked anyway), and cradle bushes. you should have at least a good visual inspection of all those components. don't be too scared, they're probably OK.

the part in the first pic to want to disconnect is the balljoint. You either need a seperator or a ball pein hammer to drop the ball joint. the shaft from the ball joint that goes up through the upright is tapered, as is the hole in the upright. they form an interference fit when tightened up which is why its hard to remove. A seperator is a large wedge shaped 2-pronged fork that goes around the balljoint shaft between the arm and the upright - you hammer it in to "break the taper" by forcing the components apart. The other way is to hit the part of the upright around the balljoint shaft with a good quality ball pein hammer to "break the taper". You will need a good quality ballpein hammer - a cheap rubbish one may shatter with the result being possible eye injury. and you will need to be able to get a good swing and be prepared to hit it hard! with either option put the castle-ated (sp?) nut back on a few turns first to catch it when it lets go. If you don't know how to do it, probably best to find a manual or just put the bolts back in and take it to someone - either someone very close and very slowly, or tow it. its not a load bearing balljoint, but it still won't be much fun if it fails while you are driving it! you might end up having another crash if that happens. Labour to replace the lower arm itself should be somewhere around an hour (it would cost about that much to buy a big seperator to do it yourelf anyway), and up to two if you fit a new ball joint to the secondhand arm as well. plus parts obviously.

HTH.

Thanks heaps guys.....I will try tonight. I always planned to get it looked over....getting a guy to send me up the parts from his r33 he is wrecking.....any one wrecking a r33 in NSW???? Let me know, desperate to save the hassels of courier. Thanks!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
    • wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have  any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?
    • nice work, welcome to the world of CAD! fabricating accurately in 3 dimensional space is beyond me....I almost always end up making something more than once...sorry I mean I extensively use prototyping
×
×
  • Create New...