Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppls,

my R34 GT-T had its first dyno last week. Im pretty happy my tuner managed to squeeze 194rwkw out of it at 14psi on the std turbo, virtually on the limit. I think he managed to do it coz the engine n turbo is in good knick. Wot do u guys think from the dyno graphs? A/F ratios still safe? Knocks were between 13-20 during the tune i was told, i only give it a squirt now n again, its not a track car as yet, i noticed that knocks were around 15 usually.

Mods - Power FC & boost controller, turbobak with split, FMIC, pod, BOV, plugs gapped at 0.7.

Any comments welcome.

Cheers.

R34_dyno_AFR.pdf

R34_dyno_Boost.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138152-my-34s-first-dyno/
Share on other sites

at 14 psi, well not sure why but i have an R33 with 73k on the odo, with same mods and i managed 187rwKw at 10.2 psi.

Seams low, but the stock turbo is only good for 12 psi, after that it just pushes more hot air in, as it is ineficient.

My map however looks more like this.

Well done.

post-27760-1160523173.jpg

Is it just my eyes or is that a VERY rough power curve? Why is it all over the place, especially with a PFC installed? Even stock ECU power curves look more "even" than that.

Won't comment on the power figure, it's believable.

Seams low, but the stock turbo is only good for 12 psi, after that it just pushes more hot air in, as it is ineficient.

have you ever tested this, or are just saying it because everyone else does? i have the stock r33 turbo running at 14psi, and it is noticably better than 12psi, which i used to run it at. i'm putting it on a dyno in a few weeks time so i'll be able to do before and after runs.

Yes i have, well i have looked at the stock Turbo maps, the turbo will definatly go better at 14 psi, it still flows more air, but it drops almost 36% in efficiency. So you are getting hotter air at 14 psi with lower efficiency, meaning that the turbo has to work harder, hence shortining the life span.

the gain form 12 to 14 psi will be marginal unless you have a very good intercooler.

Having said all that, i don't think anyone has done any dyno runs so this would be great. see what you get.

Forget the whole hot air thing. 12-12.5 psi on the street I think is safe. The fact is that if you run 14psi all the time you will have to be very lucky for the turbo to live long.

Just because your grandma smoked a pack a day and lived to 90 doesn't mean that millions didn't die of lung cancer. No one gives a f**k about the odd one that survives. We just say congratulations, you are rare.

Power is good.

I think the curve is rough because they are both single runs. Dyno operators often print an average run which smooths it out. Also, when you have under 200rwkw you have a higher reolution on the page compared to someone with another 50-100-200 more.

It seems looking at the power flattening and even dipping late in the rev range on the high boost setting that you have a restriction in either the intake or exhaust or both. This is confirmed by the boost dropping off. Are you still running the stock cat? I guess it could also be a crap boost controller. The stock actuator should have no problems holding that amount of boost.

have you ever tested this, or are just saying it because everyone else does? i have the stock r33 turbo running at 14psi, and it is noticably better than 12psi, which i used to run it at. i'm putting it on a dyno in a few weeks time so i'll be able to do before and after runs.

I know what you mean any more than about 11psi in mine and I seem to loose top end, mid range increases but I defently loose top end.

10-12 psi max for dayly driving if you plan a mountain run or a track day 10psi is the max id go.

My R33 made 195.6rwkw at 10psi, dyno dynamatics, shootout mode at ICE performance. Similar mods but I have SAFC instead of power FC

cheers

I'd be asking for a refund on the tune... its pretty average mate.

Certainly needs a bit of work.

The power curve should be smooth, and this would reflect smooth power delivery... you graph is all over the place.

And back it off to 12psi, otherwise you risk it dying.

Some do, some dont... so its your own gamble :ninja:

I'd be asking for a refund on the tune... its pretty average mate.

Certainly needs a bit of work.

The power curve should be smooth, and this would reflect smooth power delivery... you graph is all over the place.

And back it off to 12psi, otherwise you risk it dying.

Some do, some dont... so its your own gamble :laugh:

i agree with what r31nismoid said.

OMG WE ACTUALLY AGREE...yay now im going to the pub to get trashed....

cheers.

i agree. Your power curve is very erratic. The curve is what you'd expect from a std ecu. not a pfc. Put the boost down a little, an if the pfc is tuned properly then you will get more power, and more importantly a smooth power curve, hence a smoother and better power delivery which you will notice on the road.

Also i feel it is too rich at 11.2:1. Try and get it closer to 12:1.

Forget the whole hot air thing. 12-12.5 psi on the street I think is safe. The fact is that if you run 14psi all the time you will have to be very lucky for the turbo to live long.

Just because your grandma smoked a pack a day and lived to 90 doesn't mean that millions didn't die of lung cancer. No one gives a f**k about the odd one that survives. We just say congratulations, you are rare.

Power is good.

I think the curve is rough because they are both single runs. Dyno operators often print an average run which smooths it out. Also, when you have under 200rwkw you have a higher reolution on the page compared to someone with another 50-100-200 more.

It seems looking at the power flattening and even dipping late in the rev range on the high boost setting that you have a restriction in either the intake or exhaust or both. This is confirmed by the boost dropping off. Are you still running the stock cat? I guess it could also be a crap boost controller. The stock actuator should have no problems holding that amount of boost.

Could my power curve be rough becoz they r individual runs like Abo Bob mentioned? Are those smooth graphs u guys posted a average power run? Just wondering?? Abo Bob - im running BATMBL's 5" body cat so i wouldn't have thought that it was a restriction, also have BATMBL's split dump & a Blitz NUR catback so i would have thought there should be minimal restrictions there. Boost Ctrl is the Apexi Power FC EBC, wouldn't have thought that was crap either. I can't think of wot else could be restricting it :laugh:

Also does anyone have any idea wot the lower graph with Lb on the right vertical axis reads? I thought it was torque at first but after converting Ft Lb(assuming thats wot it is) to Nm, it cant be torque.

R34_dyno_Boost.pdf

Well, you have to take into account that the stock turbo is running out of puff.

it wont hold much more than 12 psi up top when tuned as it simply isn't big enough too.

Torque can be either in foot/pounds or kilograms/centimeter.

Mate; my friend's R34GTT in AUTO with nothing but a Std ECU ran 194rwkw and the curve was A LOT smoother than yours :laugh:

Glad that my immediate reaction from seeing your graph is shared by a few others.

You have a PFC; your graph should be smooth as all hell!

Could my power curve be rough becoz they r individual runs like Abo Bob mentioned? Are those smooth graphs u guys posted a average power run? Just wondering??

Nope.

I've never seen someone "average" runs and print that out.

Not saying its not possible... But your run is all over the place which is basically a poor tune

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...