Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Suspension/Steering

2x Front Stock Sway Bar - $30ea

1x Rear Stock Sway Bar - $30ea

1x Castor rod with stock rubber bush - $50

1x Castor rod (bent) with aftermarket bush - $30

1x Aftermarket castor rod bush - $30

1x Stock rubber castor rod bush - $20

2x Front Hubs and Upper Control Arms - $150 for pair

2x Front Shock Absorber - $50 for pair

1x Steering Rack - $70

2x Front King Springs - $60ea

Front shit

1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - Make offer

1x Front Left Gaurd (damaged, is bent slightly, and crumpled a little bit on the inside) - $50

1x HICAS Steering Pump (i think) and all the lines to go with) - Make offer

1x Stock Intercooler Piping - Make offer

1x Front Bumper Reinforcement Bar (has small dent) - Make offer

2x Headlights (right side one has snapped mounts) - $100 for pair

2x Indicators (right side is cracked a bit, but works) - $30ea

1x Radiator (damaged, small dent) - $20

1x Air Con. stuff, condesor, lines, bottle etc at the front (condensor is damaged in bottom corner) - $20

1x Master Brake Cylinder

Misc stuff

2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $50 and $100

1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50

3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea

1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20

1x Stock RB20 Fuel Pump - $50

2x Slip-on (floating) spacers, 8mm thickness, PCD: 114.3 multi-stud 4/5 stud - $30

1x 3" Catback Exhaust with 2 mufflers and 3" polished tip - $100

8x Stock GTS-t rims - $70ea or $200 a set

4x GTS Type S Rims - $100 set

1x Power Window Control Panel (buttons are kinda fecked) - Make offer

1x High Performance 3.5" CatBack Exhaust

1x RB20 Turbo

Tires

2x Falken Ziex ZE-326 - 235/45 R17 - basically slicks in the middle lol, good for drift or burnouts etc - $10

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/8844/tires1hy9.jpg

1x 205/65 R15 on commie stocky 5 stud steelies - not much tread left, would be good for spare tire - $10

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/2962/tires4pb0.jpg

4x Goodyear tires - 235/60 R17 - bit of tread left, not much, alot of camber wear - $20

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/7929/tires5rb3.jpg

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Theres more shit, i cant remember it right now, MOST PRICES ARE VERY NEGOTIABLE!!

ASK FOR PICS IF U ARE INTERESTED

Located in Mitcham/Unley area in SA

Edited by nisskid
  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Do you have pics of the following:

1x Air Con. stuff, condesor, lines, bottle etc at the front (condensor is damaged in bottom corner) - $20

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...