Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, I know there are heaps of catch can threads but after reading pages and pages I thought I might be best just posting this to get a quick answer so people do have to go through page upon page as I wan't to sort this out today.

I only have 2 questions.

1. My catch can only has 2 connections, is there a specific inlet and outlet or are they both just holes into the can (that I what I expect...)

2. This picture of my RB20 shows how I think it should be setup from my research. (thanks again SK). Does anyone have any differences of opinion?

catchcanpv3.jpg

Thanks for your help and sorry for starting yet another thread.

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/
Share on other sites

Hi Todd,

I too have gotten a little confused on how to correctly install a closed, two inlet catch can onto my RB20. Have done plenty of research reading SK's and others advice and see varying setups and pictures.

However, someone posted up this picture of their engine bay, and no-one disputed the way that he had plumbed it up. Looks to be exactly the same as your diagram suggests. Can anyone confirm this setup is ok?

Image000.jpg

Hope this helps Todd,

Nath

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2585624
Share on other sites

answer 1 - the inlets/outlets are the same on the catch can, just make sure you baffle it with something eg kitchen scourers in a stocking

answer 2 - the way you have it should work ok. i have it slightly differently.. see the image i attached, but with the green lines

with this way..

at idle (no positive crankcase pressure): the vapours are still going into the plenum. there shouldn't be any oil at idle anyway

on boost (positive crankcase pressure): vapours go through the catch can and catch any oil before it goes into the intake

has worked 100% fine for me and it much easier to plumb than what you have descsribed

post-2094-1160959365.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2585687
Share on other sites

Thanks for your help guys!

I think I will be doing it as I described and as NathR32 posted.

I had it setup as WAZR32GTST suggested and it seemed fine for a little while then my car started blowing masses of smoke at high RPM. I removed the can after checking a lot of other things and it is now fine however I am getting a reasonable amount of oil through my atmo BOV after a flogging so I would like to connect it up properly. I am not sure if it has damaged anything to cause this excess blowby or not.

I might look at also getting a different can as the one I have at the moment is VERY cheap, has tiny inlets (I have to use reducers) and cannot be opened to baffle with S/Steel Wool.

Anything further would be great, thanks again!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2585773
Share on other sites

Hey Tod,

My setup is the same as WAZR32GTST. its been setup like that for 6months, but I have never had a drop of oil in the catch can, (The can is full of s/steel wool) I seem to get a bit of oil in the plenum and throttle body dont know why, maybe my pcv valve is R/S.

cheers

Leigh

post-22813-1160993769.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2587695
Share on other sites

Yep

Getting a resonable amount of blow by through my atmo BOV.

Am starting to do a bit of track work.

My engine has done around 250,000kms.

Bandaid fixing before it get too bad and I need to replace the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2588080
Share on other sites

is it possible for a catch can with small inlet outlets to shoot the dipstick out after a lot of hard driving on the track?

i hooked mine up same as nathR32's last pic, went out to the track, came back and my dip stick was out a bit and there was oil everywhere.

i looked in the original pipe and there are restrictors in there so i didnt think it would matter with small inlet/outlets cos theyre still bigger than these.

i did disconnect the catch can and put the stock pipe back on and it ran perfectly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2588183
Share on other sites

mine didn't blod a dipstick but it blew a lot of smoke!

this is why I am setting it up like my original post... I will report back when I get my new can and have set it up!

i am taking it to the track on the 28th so it will be a good test then!! not that it is hard to have a good drive down here in tassie! :D

2 heads is a small price to pay for an easy life and good roads!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2588363
Share on other sites

this is a little of the topic but do u really need a catch can?

You don't actually need one but if you do alot of hard driving it might be a worthwhile investment...blowby that is ingested into the engine raises the likelyhood of detonation and we all know how bad that is for our engines...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2588883
Share on other sites

Mine is connected the same as NathR32 and works fine. I only use my R32 on the track and it gets about half full after a 20 min session at the creek. I don't see the need to have the extra plumbing as in the previous pics.

Grippy..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2593793
Share on other sites

If you are using the original hoses then remove them and check the internals. The std hoses have check valves and little filters in them. Well mine did.

I just run all new hoses and plumb it back into the inlet to the turbo as per one of the std connections. I removed the valve in my inlet manifold and leave it blanked. If i go to the track i remove the pipe to the inlet to my turbo and run it to an external vented catch can. Not optimal but my engine does not breathe a drop so works well enough.

Though if my engine breated i would run it to the PCV valve as shown rather then the inlet to the turbo...rather not get oil all thru my inlet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138831-rb20-catch-can/#findComment-2594485
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...