Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

electronic units have brains

Some do.

Some are nothing but a glorified manual boost controller. i.e simply set a gain and a duty cycle.

The better EBC's 'learn' what duty cycle is required in order to hold a given boost pressure. (AVCR, PFC EBC, Blitz SBC-id, Greedy Profec EO-1 and a few others)

The Jaycar boost controller allows you to manually tune the duty cycle through various rpm points; which can be very handy depending on what your goals are. :D

The PFC boost kit is good if you want just a cheap boost kit that holds boost well.

For a higher powered car where you want maximum response the avcr is a better bet as you are able to fiddle with individual gear gain values etc.

For a higher powered car where you want maximum response the avcr is a better bet as you are able to fiddle with individual gear gain values etc.

Simple answer, if I don't want as much power, I don't psuh the accelerator down as far. I don't care how smart the boost controller is, I KNOW that I am a lot smarter.

:P cheers ;)

Simple answer, if I don't want as much power, I don't psuh the accelerator down as far. I don't care how smart the boost controller is, I KNOW that I am a lot smarter.

;) cheers :(

Maximum response per gear not less. :P

For a higher powered car where you want maximum response the avcr is a better bet as you are able to fiddle with individual gear gain values etc.

Its not so much an issue with a stock turbo'd car.

Although not considered high powered lol I experienced issues when running the lazy vg30det turbo on my old rb20det.

I was running a I was running a Blitz SBC-ID in Auto mode; learning was done in 4th gear as it should.

First gear just wasn't snappy and didn't reach the boost target; raising the gain value had first gear boost build better not to mention it also reached the boost target but caused issues in the higher gears. I could see an application for the AVCR in this instance.

Maximum response per gear not less. :P

Its not so much an issue with a stock turbo'd car.

Although not considered high powered lol I experienced issues when running the lazy vg30det turbo on my old rb20det.

I was running a I was running a Blitz SBC-ID in Auto mode; learning was done in 4th gear as it should.

First gear just wasn't snappy and didn't reach the boost target; raising the gain value had first gear boost build better not to mention it also reached the boost target but caused issues in the higher gears. I could see an application for the AVCR in this instance.

If the boost controller is allowing the wastegate to open before the boost target is reached, then it's a BAD boost controller. That's either ZERO or 100% solenoid duty, it should be fully open or, in the case of an IEBC, fully closed. Regardless of what gear it is in, it's still a BAD boost controller if that's not the case.

;) cheers :(

If the boost controller is allowing the wastegate to open before the boost target is reached, then it's a BAD boost controller. That's either ZERO or 100% solenoid duty, it should be fully open or, in the case of an IEBC, fully closed. Regardless of what gear it is in, it's still a BAD boost controller if that's not the case.

:D cheers :D

Oh Gary Gary Gary.. :w00t:

A boost controller MUST start feeding a little pressure to the wastegate before the target boost pressure is reached. This is the gain value. If it were to be closed until its reached the target boost then slams open it will spike. There's no if's, no buts.

The gain value is to compensate for the slight delay in the wastegate slamming open.

You know this..... :w00t:

Oh Gary Gary Gary.. :w00t:

A boost controller MUST start feeding a little pressure to the wastegate before the target boost pressure is reached. This is the gain value. If it were to be closed until its reached the target boost then slams open it will spike. There's no if's, no buts.

The gain value is to compensate for the slight delay in the wastegate slamming open.

You know this..... :w00t:

Well, yes and no.

Yes, but I thought you were talking about the difference before boost started building ie, when the wastegate should be 100% closed anyway.

And no, these days with the fast acting solenoids, short actuator hoses and a correctly sized wastegate (diameter and spring rate), the opening doesn't have to be that premature. A couple of psi is all you need, and you shouldn't notice it anyway, if you have the timing right.

:D cheers :D

Well, yes and no.

Yes, but I thought you were talking about the difference before boost started building ie, when the wastegate should be 100% closed anyway.

And no, these days with the fast acting solenoids, short actuator hoses and a correctly sized wastegate (diameter and spring rate), the opening doesn't have to be that premature. A couple of psi is all you need, and you shouldn't notice it anyway, if you have the timing right.

:w00t: cheers :w00t:

I was sure it was a misunderstanding which is why I explained myself a little further. :D

Even with fast solenoids and short hoses there is still going to be a bee's dick delay; which is where the gain value comes in to it. An attempt; as you know to absorb the delay without noticeably smoothing of the boost curves elbow.

A nice sharp boost curve induces that wheel spin (which can be a bad thing) and that oh so lovely snap in the back we all love.

My fiddling found a gain value that was tweaked as close as possible before spiking occurred had a nice sharp smack in the back when boost came on as one loaded the car up from low rpm. A gain value that was low or not tweaked had a noticeably but not by bugger all smoother feel to the boost snap.

I guess really its all about the driving experience; I'd be very surprised if it made any difference to acceleration performance.

Bang for buck you can't go past the Apexi PFC EBC as its dirty cheap from nengun and perfect run etc and as stated above is a duty cycle learning type boost controller.

Personally I would prefer the Jaycar EBC over the Apexi PFC EBC as its more flexible with its only downer being the ugly controller (that you can remove once setup anyway).

For more features (gear gain settings, gear boost settings and a few others) the Apexi AVCR is a good option.

I want to get the powerfc boost controller kit for a few reasons:

1. Its easy to install, no extra crap on the dash

2. I have a 7psi actuator, and I'm using the $22 boost controller to bleed that to 18psi

3. I want something that I can set at higher boost levels, safely.

4. I want something that won't spike, or shake the shit out of the Boost guage needle.

I like the idea of the powerfc boost control kit being $350 too...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...