Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my well known blue one is sold as i wanted to go street instead of track...

so i purchased this puppy

black factory manual rb20de non hicas non abs

ill write mods up later... heres pics how it is as of yesterday... front 5 stud and front rims + guard flare this weekend

post-25224-1169541533.jpg

post-25224-1169541555.jpg

post-25224-1169541584.jpg

Edited by Hella Flush
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139023-hella-flush-a31-rb20de-5spd-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

i know dude! ive been workin flat out on it and im just so sore...

will do ti this weekend when i put my front sections in, 5 stud, 33 brakes and front rimsys... ill set ride height and allignment all round

exhaust this weekend asqwell as you can see stock one is almost hitting as it is

dont worry dude - everyone knows im the king of jap styling :laugh:

Edited by Hella Flush

update front 5 stud done today...

need new master as brakes are heaps soft (33 gtst all round) and bled them 3 times...

front wheels on enxt week to complete the set

exhaust gets done tomorrow morning at 9am which is actually 5.5hours away from now lol

rebuilding the driveline will begin next and more susp work

s14 hubs

s14 stubaxles

r33 rotors

r33 calipers

cefiro lower control arms with r33 balljoints pressed in (r33/s14 same balljoint taper/assembly and stub axle/hub)

dont use s14 or r33 lower control arms... extra 10mm in track can play with camber adjustment and be abitch thus i opted to use stock arms

pedders suspension charged 100 bucks for brand new balljoints to be pressed into my arms

40 a balljoint and 10 per side to press

one thing which im wondering about your setup konect is r33 dont use normal front coilovers like the silvia range... due to being irs they mount like a rear set dont they? makes me think you cant use r33 lower control arms and/or stub axle... would need to swap for s14 items

supposedly can use r32 front hubs slotted into standard stub axles also... thats what i did with my rear atleast - used z32 rear hubs slotted straight into my factory stub axle using factory drum handbrake setup... then slotted the brakes over

back on track

update on my car

5 stud completed yesterday as above... front section brand new coilovers come out of the gfs s15 and into my car tomorrow so i can have my full set back

exhaust was cancelled this morning as my guy called in sick to work so couldnt do it... rebooked for tuesday

got some interior bits i was missing today and installed - airvent surrounds etc

copped some gutter rash on my drivers side rear rim tonite at this ridiculously tight roundabout

attempted the white dial mod to dash cluster last nite

took 2 smokes straight and i had it done with all the green caps removed and reinstalled (did it in carpark whilst eating hj's as i always carry 3 toolboxes with me full of tools (just incase!))

only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating... so im wondering how to fix this? it has been mentioned to use thinners on the dials to remove the green?

front rimsys should arrive this week also - already got new front tyres to stretch on when they arrive

also added some stickers today to rear quarters... pics up shortly!

s14 hubs

s14 stubaxles

r33 rotors

r33 calipers

cefiro lower control arms with r33 balljoints pressed in (r33/s14 same balljoint taper/assembly and stub axle/hub)

one thing which im wondering about your setup konect is r33 dont use normal front coilovers like the silvia range... due to being irs they mount like a rear set dont they? makes me think you cant use r33 lower control arms and/or stub axle... would need to swap for s14 items

supposedly can use r32 front hubs slotted into standard stub axles also... thats what i did with my rear atleast - used z32 rear hubs slotted straight into my factory stub axle using factory drum handbrake setup... then slotted the brakes over

Yeh I have all the parts off the R33 but was planning to use the S14 front hubs and lower control arms. But it seems you say that I can use the standard lower control arms if I get the new ball joint. Correct? So then I would only need the S14 hubs for the fronts.

R33 rears bolt on apparently. Mmmm drum handbrake.

its height man dont worry... now 5 stud is on it looks a lil better... slammed at front too just needs to come down at the rear

respray is on the cards... already lined up... but unsure when... its either going to be turbo conversion or respray... i know which is cheaper (respray) but am really hanging for some power to actually use the car

post-25224-1170078524.jpg

Edited by Hella Flush

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
    • I'm extremely suspicious of the VPP stuff. Best I can tell, you surrender any and all control of your panels and battery to the VPP, because there's no way that anyone could write a sufficiently useful set of "rules" as to how much you would be willing to let out of your export meter at any given time. If one of your main interests is to have enough in your battery every evening to get you through the night without having to import, you could easily find yourself with nothing in your battery at the end of the day, or part way through the night, and then be paying import pricing instead of paying nothing. I cannot see how this cannot come to pass.
×
×
  • Create New...