Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how would the cat affect it?

update: i got home this arvo (been driving with the o2 sensor unplugged) and plugged the o2 sensor back in. seemed to run fine. then the aircon switched off, and it ran slightly crappy. turned aircon back on and ran fine. watching the gauge it runs leaner with the aircon on, and richer with the aircon off. so i'm thinking it may be fouled plugs, or possible the idle control, but i'm open to other suggestions.

Edited by mad082
Did you say you cleaned your Afm's..........did you open them up and re-soldered the joins?

Just curious........what colour is the shirt?

yes.......... yes.

thats ok........ blue

Edited by mad082

i don't think it is the throttle cable. the reason is that i can sit there and it won't do it. then it might do it for a second then it will go away. or it will hunt so bad it stalls the car.

i'm giong to clean the AAc valve again. last time i had this sort of issue it was the cause, but it had slightly different symptoms. it would hunt, but the idle would sometimes sit at 600, other times 1500.

  • 1 month later...

i know it is digging a bit, but this morning my car a had a slight missfire for about 5 secs on really low acceleration. No boost prob still running - pressure in the manifold. The car had warmed up or was close to it, and it is the first time it has done it. It has not done it since, only that short time.

Just wondering MAD082 if you found out your problem? or if anyone knows anything new.

i ended up altering the tps, putting a new fuel filter in, cleaning the afm, changing back to my old o2 sensor, got rid of some vaccum leaks.......

i think that was all, and yes it did go away. i think the vaccum leak was the main cause. it was the breather hose on top of the rocker cover, and also the seal around the pcv valve that i found to be leaking.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...