Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Cant seem to find anything on this in these forums, so I am asking for some guidance.

I am wanting to remove my injectors for a thorough cleaning. Can anyone give me some instructions on exactly how to do this?

The basic steps I believe are:

Run the car and pull the fuel pump fuse to remove fuel in the system.

Remove the throttle body and top half of the plenum to get at the injectors and rail (amongst a bunch of other hoses etc).

Remove the rail and injectors.

Now the stuff I need guidance on is:

Will i need new gasket for the throttle body when it is removed?

How are the injectors held in place? Only by the pressure of the rail holding them in? or do they screw in?

Do I need new o-rings? How many? Best place to get them? What should I be paying?

Are there any traps I should know about?

I am happy to do up an instruction sheet with pics and post it here if I go ahead with it.

Any help here appreciated.

Justin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139266-removing-rb25-injectors/
Share on other sites

If the throttle body gasket is still intact after disassembly apply some ultra blue silicone to it and it will ok. If in any doubt replace. Ask nissan, should be cheap as they are only paper gasket. Ive never taken injectors out of those engines but normally they are only held in place by the rail which is bolted to the inlet manifold. Hence they are sandwiched between. When you get your injectors cleaned professionally (only way to do it properly) they will supply you with all new o-rings and possibly insulators too. When reinstalling injectors make sure you use rubber grease or vaseline on the o-rings to prevent them from getting cut on insertion. When re-inserting use a twisting motion back and forth while you press them gently into the rail. Look to pay around $30 (plus gst) per injector for an ultrasonic bath clean and test.

Good luck

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

you can also use silicone based lubricant.

and as deren said, you need to get them professionally cleaned! the 'ol mr jiffy ain't gonna cut it. They actually put the injectors in a test tank and open and close them at a certain frequency to clear out all the crap. usually $20-30 per injector at most fuel injection specialists.

As far as the gasket is concerned, probably best to replace it, you can buy gasket paper and cut them to shape if the nissan ones are expensive (as they usually are)

As far as the fuse and fuel thing... I wouldn't think it was wise. Running lean like that (even briefly) could cause issues. I guess the motive behind that is to release the pressure of the fuel?

Do it the next morning, and the fuel pressure will probably drop sufficiently, but put nice thick rags under the work-area just incase eh?

Randy, it's what the workshop manuals say, so it can't be all that dangerous. (It's only a problem under load, when a lean mixture can cause detonation).

The rail is held in by 3 bolts. And it's not really necessary to separate the plenum - if you remove enough hoses and stuff, the rail will come out forwards (over the radiator).

As far as the fuse and fuel thing... I wouldn't think it was wise. Running lean like that (even briefly) could cause issues.

Eh?? Lean? It mearly runs the engine out of fuel so it doesnt spray at you when you remove fuel lines.

  • 2 months later...

My advice, take the injectors to be cleaned while still in the rail. Let them fully dissassemble it from there. They can be a tricky thing to get out without damaging them & they probably won't charge a lot more to do it if anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
×
×
  • Create New...