Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

the plastic part of my upper radiator is cracked. I was wondering has anyone got any ideas on how to fix it.

Like Sikaflex or something else?

I got a price from Natrad in Granville NSW....they quoted me $418 for an new copper core one.

Any ideas or alternatives?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139298-r33-gtst-radiator/
Share on other sites

It has big pressure in there and unless what you do is extremely strong i doubt it will last long. Considering it holds the life of your engine in its hands i would strongly recommend replacing. Try wreckers, should be easy to come by. Its a GTS-t! They are like taxi's.

justjap sell aluminium ones for 400.

a cheaper alternative would be to replace the top tank.

i got a new top tank for my old honda for $120. just go into any radiator specialists and they should be able to fix you up.

check out east-west radiators in bankstown, 4 exceller ave. ph: 97901232.

Look around for 2nd hand radiators, from people wreaking their lines. Got my 2nd hand radiator from one of the sau members.

My top end tanks were cracked/leaking, you could see the white stains. And also coolent leaking to the ground.

  • 4 weeks later...

For your information;

Superior Radiator Services, Seaton Rd Moorbeank NSW

$160.00 for a new upper tank which includes testing the tank and flush etc...

$380.00 for a new calsonic radiator.

Labour is extra if u want them to install it.

got any info on the calsonic radiators?

thats cheaper than the just jap aluminium 40mm ones.

Calsonic are just the standard replacements, right? If so, then the aluminium radiators are definately going to be more expensive.

I second the re-core idea. Shouldn't cost too much. $200? It's gotta be done, unless you source a used one that doesn't leak... for a while at least. :(

second hand replacement is probably the go.

You can try mending it with JB-weld or something similar, though I only recommend this as a temporary solution. It's a fantastic product, I have used it a number of times on my daily driver

I have had good results with jb-weld on a metal coolant line which had started to split along a seam, i used jbweld on it and it's been fine for 3 months now, which is impressive given that it's a high-pressure line. I do intend on replacing it, but i check it every few days and it hasn't shown any signs of leaking or starting to crack again.

don't know if i would use it as a permanent solution for my skyline but it's good as a temp fix to get you out of trouble until you can afford to replace the end tank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...