Jump to content
SAU Community

What Cams To Use In Rb30/rb25de Conversion?

aleckan

By aleckan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

aleckan Rookie

aleckan

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm soon about to do the rb30 conversion with a rb30e bottom and r32 rb30de head.

The goal is 700hp+ on the crank and my question what camshafts I should use for this. I searched the Tomei website etc and I found nothing that fits the r32 rb25de head?

Is it possible to make gtr cams work in this head, I do want to convert to solid lifters so that shouln't be a problem.

Anyone that can help me sort out what to use? =)

Edited by aleckan
aleckan Rookie

aleckan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
mate go to the rb30 dohc thread ask there. BUT READ THROUGH THE THREAD FIRST.

this question has been asked alot of times.

DO A SEARCH

this actually isn't that related to the rb30 conversion. what I'm asking what cams I should use in a rb25de head if I'm aming for 700hp+.

I have downloaded that thread and search through every one of the posts, and there is nothing there that helps me. :dry:

and what question has been asked a lot of times, if I can fit rb26dett cams into a rb25 head? I can't find anything when I search for that either. :P

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

If you are aimimg for that sort of power I would go the RB26 head right off the bat.

Solid Lifters, best stock cams, more turbo options due to manifold availability, Best plenum,

It will cost you $1000 more to buy the head but in the long run it will be cheaper

PUS16 Apprentice

PUS16

Posted
Posted

hey dude, when we built my 30/25 and used an aspirated head we used the aspirated cams and made 465bhp on 27psi but with a massive drop off top end! So we got hold of a set of 26 cams and had them ground by sure cams so as we could still use hydraulic lifters and also used adjustable cam gears and made 602bhp pump fuel with 29psi. all with standard inlet, throttle body..... (basiclly a completely standard head with cams and camgears)!!

pm me if u want any info...

nath

aleckan Rookie

aleckan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No idea to be honest.

You can grab solid conversion kits from nengun and the likes.. They aren't that expensive really.

thanks for all good answers cubes!

nengun, do they have a website? =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...