Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having had a bit of a nightmare with all my carbies (twin SU, twin 260Z Hitachi and C210 single carb) over the last little while I was curious...

What carbies are you old-schoolers running on your cars?

How many?

Where do you get them serviced, or do you DIY?

Do you love them, or do they cause you endless pain and suffering?

Ringing around Melbourne its hard to find anyone that will even TUNE my carbies, let alone for anything less than a small fortune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/
Share on other sites

got a set of Keihin flatslide carbs on my Honda Fireblade

(for sale)

love em. the sound of flatslide carbs opening up at xxxkmph is heaven.

tinkered a little with the tuning myself, but left the overall setup to an ex-500gp racer who resides in Adelaide; he's a wizz and charges $30ph.

however, when the tune gets on in time you can definately tell that the carbs are going "off" as such. good luck with finding a reputable tuner tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2596659
Share on other sites

Having had a bit of a nightmare with all my carbies (twin SU, twin 260Z Hitachi and C210 single carb) over the last little while I was curious...

What carbies are you old-schoolers running on your cars?

How many?

Where do you get them serviced, or do you DIY?

Do you love them, or do they cause you endless pain and suffering?

Ringing around Melbourne its hard to find anyone that will even TUNE my carbies, let alone for anything less than a small fortune.

Had twin webbers and they were a bitch to tune..... Wonderful when it was right though :D

The key was getting aero spec lines, rods, joins etc as they don't flex or move much (if at all).

Also had a 350 holley with 500 jets and it was fairly easy to tune

Did it all myself, but got my hands on some workshop manuals to help me the first fwe times... Trying to figure them out without em would've been a nightmare.....

Some of the older jap carbies are really easy to work with as they have less parts...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2596682
Share on other sites

The 260Z carbies are WOFTAM.

Have you talked to Lindsay at Z Shop in Glen Iris?

Im not actually sure what WOFTAM is... but im guessing its not World Of Fun Times And Merriment.

Actually, I have dealt with the Z shop guys before. They will actually service my car, which is a plus... But I'm open to making new friends in the industry. Their time is certainly worth more than $30 an hour.

BTW Tangles, I had a set of quad Keihins on my old Honda 1300 Coupe 9... Sigh... they were very special.

Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2597755
Share on other sites

are your carbs a matched pair? adding carbs from one car to another or mixing and matching can be a real nightmare to get running right... it might be worth your money getting em synched properly and then getting it tuned. the only time i have ever heard someone complain about carbs is when they were not factory fitted ... once their set right they will stay in tune for a long time (at least webers do) theyre should be a few places in melbourne that specialise in carbs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2598099
Share on other sites

If off the line sluggishness is not a problem, try looking at a set of Triumph 2500TC 1 3/4 SU's, if a manifold is available.

I think MGB's also ran them but I think they were 1 1/2's.

They have an infinite amount of jet & needle combinations available for them and are still relatively easy to get.

I found them far superior to the Jap copies it wasn't funny when I was running them on a 180B SSS.

The air speed through the carbies is not good from a standing start, but once moving it was a very good combination.

The same thing was found when using Dellorto's Vs Webber's in my early days when playing with Hillman's, the smallest Dellorto was 42mm but 40mm Webbers were the best.

Tuning is relatively simple, if you buy a balance flow guage.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2598125
Share on other sites

My only experience with new SU's was a pair of HIF6's with the non emission manifold on a stretched L20B - 2340 . The later HIF 6 series SU's have the central lower fuel bowl compared to the early "out on a limb" types ie HS4's and HS6's . It helps with fuel surge as the bowl is concentric with the needle and jet .

SU's will always have problems with radiated heat particularly with engines that have exhaust and inlet manifolds on the same side ie real Minis and the L series . Later HIF series had a kind of metalic strip compensating device but it was of limited value .

A bit of care needs to be taken with these vacum venturi carbs to avoid iceing in humid climates .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2604269
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies.

After a bit of shopping around I decided to get my SU's sorted by a pro. They are going great guns now. Anyone looking for a Datsun/carbie friendly mechanic in Melbourne should look up GMA Motors in Yarraville in Melbourne, as he actually used to rally a C210.

Just for the record; my SU's are 1 and 3/4, with water cooling for the manifold and a heat sheild for the extractors... and yes, they are certainly working out better than the 260Z carbs... WOFTAM, heh heh, should have worked that one out.

Anyone out their doing something different with carbies? Anyone had a go at running triples?

Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2607744
Share on other sites

There is a few 280z racecars around my area in new zealand one has a fully worked L28 its like nearly 3L and has had thousands & thousands spent on it and it has triple 45mm (or was it 48mm?) dellortos an god dam it sounds nice!, like easly the best sounding N/A car I have ever heard and it goes really well in its class like gets up there with the top runners quite often! Tryed to find some info on the net but cant seem to find anything on it though sorry!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2608760
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...