Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First of all i would like to say a big hey to everyone out there. (as this is my first post :mad:) Love the site tho allways find usefull stuff on here and good advice.

I have a couple of questions about what i should do and have some ideas dont know if they will work or not thats why i came here :( lol

Question 1:

Can a GTS4 be converted to have a RB25DET or would it be pointless cos it would cost to much cos of the fuss with the AWD?

Question 2:

would it be better to just buy a GTST and not worry with the fuss?

Question 3:

how much would it cost to put the RB25DET in the GTS4?

Question 4:

would the rb25det in the gts4 have better peformance than a normal gtst?

thanks in advance :mellow:

Edited by raZ1911
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Which GTS4 (R32 or R33)?

R32 GTS4 only came with a RB20DET.

Stagea RB25DET is the only engine that bolts straight in (in RB25s at least - obviously RB26 is an option).

As to performance, I took my low-mod R32 GTS4 from 115 awkW up to 180 awkW (included aftermarket ECU). You be the judge if it's worthwhile.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/#findComment-2599046
Share on other sites

perhaps buy a GTS4 and also a Stagea frontcut?

use the engine to get you a AWD RB25det conversion, and I know plenty of Stag owners would be interested in the front bar, the bonnet, the side panels, etc. you'd make your money back easy IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/#findComment-2600168
Share on other sites

i may be wrong coz dont know much about 33's but didnt the r33 gts4 have a 25det in it so wouldnt it be easier to buy a 33 gts4??? and as you stated you wanted an r33

ok my bad i figured the 33 was a 25det in the gts4 but its NA thought it would be the same as a 32

Edited by paulmac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/#findComment-2600786
Share on other sites

Question 4:

would the rb25det in the gts4 have better peformance than a normal gtst?

AWD added about 130kgs to the R32 GTS-T when they created the R32 GTS4. With that in mind, I would say the added weight of the AWD hardware means your car would probably actually be slower than the standard rear wheel drive car in most situations. You must also consider that when the GTS-T isn't just a GTS with a turbo engine - brakes, suspension, wheels, etc. are all upgraded to handle the extra power, and you should consider this when costing a turbo engine conversion for a non-turbo vehicle. Depending on the results you want, it would be far more cost effective to boost traction via. suspension and tyre mods rather than swapping to all wheel drive.

Just my 2c.

would a stagea front cut be hard to get?

If you can't find one in your area, companies like Prestige Motorsport will locate one in Japan to your designated specifications and import it for you.

Edited by Big Rizza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/#findComment-2601056
Share on other sites

would that cost much?

Dunno how much for a Stagea, but I'd say they would be comparable to the equivalent Skyline prices. As a guide:

Nissan Skyline R33 Gts-t Series 1 2.5L turbo 1993 - 95 model (RB25DET) 5 speed manual with good condition engine and body panels

from about $3,800

Nissan Skyline R33 Gts-t Series 2 2.5L turbo 1996 - 98 model (RB25DET) 5 speed manual (hard to source)

from about $4,900

Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T 2.5L turbo 1998 to 2002 model (RB25DET NEO) 5 speed manual

from about $7,100

Front cuts are sourced from Japan as whole vehicles, tested as a running unit, then cut up and shipped as a front cut. Vehicles are chopped just behind the windscreen, and typically include the front seats, engine and wiring, transmission and tail shaft, suspension, wheels and fuel pump. If sourced to order then other small parts not usually taken from the vehicle can be included on request.

More prices at http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...rticle.php?t=22

Edited by Big Rizza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/#findComment-2601313
Share on other sites

AWD added about 130kgs to the R32 GTS-T when they created the R32 GTS4.

is that the same with the R33?

Dunno how much for a Stagea, but I'd say they would be comparable to the equivalent Skyline prices. As a guide:

Nissan Skyline R33 Gts-t Series 1 2.5L turbo 1993 - 95 model (RB25DET) 5 speed manual with good condition engine and body panels

from about $3,800

Nissan Skyline R33 Gts-t Series 2 2.5L turbo 1996 - 98 model (RB25DET) 5 speed manual (hard to source)

from about $4,900

Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T 2.5L turbo 1998 to 2002 model (RB25DET NEO) 5 speed manual

from about $7,100

Front cuts are sourced from Japan as whole vehicles, tested as a running unit, then cut up and shipped as a front cut. Vehicles are chopped just behind the windscreen, and typically include the front seats, engine and wiring, transmission and tail shaft, suspension, wheels and fuel pump. If sourced to order then other small parts not usually taken from the vehicle can be included on request.

More prices at http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...rticle.php?t=22

yeah ill email them and ask about the cost, is there any other places that do it also just so i can ask around

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/#findComment-2601378
Share on other sites

is that the same with the R33?

Yes.

yeah ill email them and ask about the cost, is there any other places that do it also just so i can ask around

Dunno if any of these guys will source half cuts from Japan to spec, but I'm sure they could point you in the right direction...

http://www.justjap.com/halfcuts.htm

http://www.adelaidejap.com.au/front%20cuts.htm

http://www.japimports.com.au/halfcuts.htm

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/engines.htm

Plenty of others out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139404-awd-rb25det/#findComment-2601799
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...