Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this has been covered a few times, general consensus is that it doesnt effect performance positively or negatively, i personally would suggest using a matte black as opposed to a gloss as i would assume gloss would be thicker, just go back and forth doing light coatings with a spray can and that should do the trick, im doing it this way myselkf as soon as i get the time.

Guys i wanna paint my front mount black (mainly for cosmetic reasons) anyone else done this? what is the best paint to do? or am i better off taking it to a panel beater and getting them to hit it with the black?

Steve

you need blingy chrome behind that red bar steve :D

Guys i wanna paint my front mount black (mainly for cosmetic reasons) anyone else done this? what is the best paint to do? or am i better off taking it to a panel beater and getting them to hit it with the black?

Steve

hurry up and find out!

alpinestars want to know already

i want mine pink

Are you doing the whole cooler black or stencil?

If you want a good job get some decent paint (dont get supacrap). And prep is very important. Are you going to prime it?

The only downside I can see is that it'll attract the heat.

Instead of matt (bunky) or gloss we've got satin black in the shop and it's top quality paint imported from germany. It's artist paint and it's formulated to help noobs get less drips :)

Are you doing the whole cooler black or stencil?

If you want a good job get some decent paint (dont get supacrap). And prep is very important. Are you going to prime it?

The only downside I can see is that it'll attract the heat.

Instead of matt (bunky) or gloss we've got satin black in the shop and it's top quality paint imported from germany. It's artist paint and it's formulated to help noobs get less drips :)

you would think that painting it black would attract the heat but it doesnt :)

there is some engerinning behide it but i forget it hehee

Are you doing the whole cooler black or stencil?

If you want a good job get some decent paint (dont get supacrap). And prep is very important. Are you going to prime it?

The only downside I can see is that it'll attract the heat.

Instead of matt (bunky) or gloss we've got satin black in the shop and it's top quality paint imported from germany. It's artist paint and it's formulated to help noobs get less drips :)

Matt black will stik to anything with great results as it has lesser of a paint base, just make sure it free of any grease or wax coatings. get yourself some wax and grease remover/prep wash. There is no need to prime it as you want the paint thin as possible so it does not act as a insulator.

Any can of matt black paint will work, no need expensive imported paint that "helps you get less drips" .

Nice even coats will be the key.

Yr 10 physics lets us know that black will work best. But as i said, its purely cosmetic! Thanks guys or the feed back guys. Ill smash up some photos once all is done. Might even try to get it out on a cruise sometime soon :)

wanna paint mine at the same time?

i do audio u do paint?

deal f**ker :)

No primer - no base protection...so the paint will be more prone to getting imperfections (rocks/chips/scratches).

Hey hey hey, who ever said the german paint is more expensive...and more expensive than what? (It's cheaper than dulux, less high pressure than dulux and you get interchangable spray nozzles to adjust the type of spray and flow) and i wouldnt go anywhere near export paint, fades like there's no tomorrow)

I just can't get into matt black on cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...