Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay, this is seriously a newbie question, but I have just put my new stock R33 GTS-T through a dyno to measure the initial power before any mods were done to it.

Why is the max power only at 132kw instead of the 180kw which it was supposedly able to do in the official R33 specifications?

No wonder it felt kinda slow. Kinda dissapointed and can't wait to fit some mods. :laugh:

p1010633largedx7.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139745-power-output-in-stock-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

all figures in magzines, flyers, brochers, dealers etc are all flywheel

ie: at the engine / clutch system and not at the rear wheels.

a stock gtst in 4th will make around 130 to 140rwkw.

all the hsv's that have the 250kw badging and "figures" are all the flywheel

so they would make around 200rwkw. a 200rkw skyline would smoke it no worries

The R33's come with a dual stage boost control solenoid that switches from low to high boost mode at roughly 4500rpm (about the same time the variable inlet cam kicks to advanced setting). It's mounted in front of the passenger side strut tower with 1 hose going off to the intake before the turbo, then another with a t-piece splitting off to go to the wastegate actuator & the intake after the turbo.

Why nissan set them up with the dual stage control like this I have no idea, makes the car a lot peakier to drive though. When you get another boost controller you can set it up for the same boost at lower revs. Far more Torquey

Edited by JazzaR33

Mate, my R33 was on the dyno at Mercury a bit over a week ago and it made 149.4rwkw, again on a completely stock car. If you compare the graphs you'll see that i'm making around 20kws more through most of the rev range, but more importantly you'll see the difference in boost. I've grounded the wire going to the boost controller so it's in high boost all the time, but yours should still get there in the end. I'd be looking at your boost controller first, maybe read the thread on staying constantly in high boost mode and give that a shot.

dyno.jpg

My RB20 made 196.4kw with some small mods. I think the R34 Turbo made a big difference. Dyno Results are on my Signature. Shoebox I suggest you get rid of the Dual Stage boost and just run a constant 8-10psi. >_<

:P

Edited by r32matt

well I had 145rwkw completely stock and when i got an exhaust it went to 170rwkw. how do i do the adjustment to get hi boost from stock controller all the time??? havent heard of that yet. Thanks!!

and it should be at 5psi before that. i'd say you have a split hose of something causeing a boost leak.

okay, i'll ask him about it tomorrow. split hose!?! don't scare me! =_=

but i really doubt that it's a mechanical fault, as i sent this car down for a pre-purchase inspection a few weeks ago, and it cleared except for an oil leak from the tappet covers, castor bushes which are about to split and spark plugs which are one heat range lower than they're supposed to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...