Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Output In Stock R33 Gts-t

shoebox

By shoebox,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
Posted

Okay, this is seriously a newbie question, but I have just put my new stock R33 GTS-T through a dyno to measure the initial power before any mods were done to it.

Why is the max power only at 132kw instead of the 180kw which it was supposedly able to do in the official R33 specifications?

No wonder it felt kinda slow. Kinda dissapointed and can't wait to fit some mods. :laugh:

p1010633largedx7.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139745-power-output-in-stock-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

all figures in magzines, flyers, brochers, dealers etc are all flywheel

ie: at the engine / clutch system and not at the rear wheels.

a stock gtst in 4th will make around 130 to 140rwkw.

all the hsv's that have the 250kw badging and "figures" are all the flywheel

so they would make around 200rwkw. a 200rkw skyline would smoke it no worries

J_Red33 Experienced

J_Red33

Posted
Posted (edited)

The R33's come with a dual stage boost control solenoid that switches from low to high boost mode at roughly 4500rpm (about the same time the variable inlet cam kicks to advanced setting). It's mounted in front of the passenger side strut tower with 1 hose going off to the intake before the turbo, then another with a t-piece splitting off to go to the wastegate actuator & the intake after the turbo.

Why nissan set them up with the dual stage control like this I have no idea, makes the car a lot peakier to drive though. When you get another boost controller you can set it up for the same boost at lower revs. Far more Torquey

Edited by JazzaR33
_Scotty_ Collaborator

_Scotty_

Posted
Posted

Mate, my R33 was on the dyno at Mercury a bit over a week ago and it made 149.4rwkw, again on a completely stock car. If you compare the graphs you'll see that i'm making around 20kws more through most of the rev range, but more importantly you'll see the difference in boost. I've grounded the wire going to the boost controller so it's in high boost all the time, but yours should still get there in the end. I'd be looking at your boost controller first, maybe read the thread on staying constantly in high boost mode and give that a shot.

dyno.jpg

r32matt Collaborator

r32matt

Posted
Posted (edited)

My RB20 made 196.4kw with some small mods. I think the R34 Turbo made a big difference. Dyno Results are on my Signature. Shoebox I suggest you get rid of the Dual Stage boost and just run a constant 8-10psi. >_<

:P

Edited by r32matt
Nismo_God Veteran

Nismo_God

Posted
Posted

well I had 145rwkw completely stock and when i got an exhaust it went to 170rwkw. how do i do the adjustment to get hi boost from stock controller all the time??? havent heard of that yet. Thanks!!

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
and it should be at 5psi before that. i'd say you have a split hose of something causeing a boost leak.

okay, i'll ask him about it tomorrow. split hose!?! don't scare me! =_=

but i really doubt that it's a mechanical fault, as i sent this car down for a pre-purchase inspection a few weeks ago, and it cleared except for an oil leak from the tappet covers, castor bushes which are about to split and spark plugs which are one heat range lower than they're supposed to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...