Bee-r Rev Limter

[Angus Smart]

anti lag/launch control on the power fc for the gti-r used to kill it at the lights!

people were scared!

I have been lookin at the bee r one tho for the gtr. school zone limiter it will become haha

Edited October 23, 2006 by Angus Smart

[RB30-POWER]

so for the people who have these how much boost are you making when the two step is enabled?

i know with most aftermarket ecu 2 steps you configure the amount of ignition retard, amount of extra fuel and rpm for operation and can make big boost on big turbo's for launch, but how configurable or useful are these standalone types that you are all discussing?

[Mr. Oizo]

so for the people who have these how much boost are you making when the two step is enabled?

i know with most aftermarket ecu 2 steps you configure the amount of ignition retard, amount of extra fuel and rpm for operation and can make big boost on big turbo's for launch, but how configurable or useful are these standalone types that you are all discussing?

It will most likely hit full boost, whatever that may be set to

I know plenty of people that are using stutterboxes (fuel cut), and they make around 15psi

So I can only imagine, ignition cut will work a lot more effectively

[paulr33]

and how much of that drops when you rip the clutch out and let the drivetrain have it i wonder ?

[Mr. Oizo]

and how much of that drops when you rip the clutch out and let the drivetrain have it i wonder ?

none..?

[mitchy_]

whats the difference between the ignition cut limiter, and missfiring each cylinder limiter?

ie. pro's/con's of each?

[Bass Junky]

I"m not really sure about the pros and cons of it.

I know that the Bee-R style simply cuts the earth from the system therefore the signal going to the plug cannot complete, hence no spark.

The Gizzmo style actually cuts signal going to each cylinder sequencially, therefore not dropping the same cylinder each time, which may or may not happen.

Dropping earth means that there's no control of exactly which plug gets dropped.

I guess the Sequencial would be better simply because it cycles between each cylinder.

I don't know which one would be better until you tested them back to back..

I reckon both make cool flames!

[BAMR33]

Sh1t, these are so damaging for every aspect of your car, but I want one sooooo bad!!! My question is can they be turned off for when you want to only hammer your car and not kill it.

[BAMR33]

Also can the gizzmo launch interface be used with PFC?

[Bass Junky]

Turning them off wouldn't really be required, as if you are staging to launch RPM, which is probably going to be like 4500 rpm, you would be hammering your car anyway.

With the PFC, no. It's a complete stand alone unit, the PFC wouldn't even know its there.

[shnaped_second]

Ive just purchased one of these of ebay for 360, cant wait to get it fitted and throw some flames

[BAMR33]

Turning them off wouldn't really be required, as if you are staging to launch RPM, which is probably going to be like 4500 rpm, you would be hammering your car anyway.

With the PFC, no. It's a complete stand alone unit, the PFC wouldn't even know its there.

I meant more from the point of flat changing because it would be shifting gears at full boost and I wouldn't want to constantly do this. I'm guessing I could just put a two phase switch between the power supply and the launch control.

Isn't the idea of these types of units to interfer with the signal going to the coilpacks and would therefore operate regardless what ecu you had. I know for a fact the Bee*r unit works with PFC because they installed one in the HPI r32 and it runs a PFC. I'm just not 100% sure on the gizzmo unit?

Edited October 23, 2006 by BAMR33

[Bass Junky]

Yeah, that's what I mean. You install it, the PFC doesn't know it's there hence no changes are required.

With the Gizzmo, you cut the signal wires going to the plugs (from the PFC) and the signal goes into the Gizzmo and out the other side. When the Gizzmo wants to control rpm, it just doesn't allow the signal through.

[mitchy_]

Sh1t, these are so damaging for every aspect of your car, but I want one sooooo bad!!! My question is can they be turned off for when you want to only hammer your car and not kill it.

couldn't you just set the launch rpm higher than the redline rpm limiter?

edit: from what ive read, there is 3 knobs on the Bee-R limiter, Rev1, Rev2, and Gain.

Rev1 sets your redline limiter.

Rev2 sets the launch control limiter.

and Gain sets the frequency and length of limit.. setting gain to 0 disables the limiter apparently.

http://www.driftworks.com/index.php?action...p;resourceId=16

[Bass Junky]

I don't see the point in wanting to turn it off.

They run off a switch on your clutch.

When the clutch is in, the RPM limit is set at say 4500rpm

When the clutch is out the limiter is like 7500 rpm

The only time you would encounter the launch rpm limit is if you had the clutch in, and dialed up more than 4500 rpm with your right foot.

The only time I dial up 4500rpm with the clutch in is when I'm about to launch pretty freaking hard, and it's then that you want the boost on board.

[BAMR33]

couldn't you just set the launch rpm higher than the redline rpm limiter?

yep, I just thought it would be easier to have switch so you don't have to screw around with the settings every time you want to use it.

[mitchy_]

I don't see the point in wanting to turn it off.

They run off a switch on your clutch.

When the clutch is in, the RPM limit is set at say 4500rpm

When the clutch is out the limiter is like 7500 rpm

The only time you would encounter the launch rpm limit is if you had the clutch in, and dialed up more than 4500 rpm with your right foot.

The only time I dial up 4500rpm with the clutch in is when I'm about to launch pretty freaking hard, and it's then that you want the boost on board.

i was thinking the same thing, its not often you would have the clutch in and be anyway near the launch rpm...

yep, I just thought it would be easier to have switch so you don't have to screw around with the settings every time you want to use it.

set the gain to '0' and it disables the limiter.

[wilch]

Question:

Won't cutting the ignition to all the plugs with the throttle open (BeeR limiter) cause the plugs to get fouled? (ie. bad)

Whereas with the Gizmo one the plugs won't get as fouled cause they are still being sparked?

[Wheezy]

I don't see the point in wanting to turn it off.

They run off a switch on your clutch.

When the clutch is in, the RPM limit is set at say 4500rpm

When the clutch is out the limiter is like 7500 rpm

The only time you would encounter the launch rpm limit is if you had the clutch in, and dialed up more than 4500 rpm with your right foot.

The only time I dial up 4500rpm with the clutch in is when I'm about to launch pretty freaking hard, and it's then that you want the boost on board.

Call me stupid but how dos this affect the limiter when heel toe-ing down a gear....

clutch in, right foot on anchors and accelerator, heel toe to 6K for example, wouldnt it hit limiter?

But as mentioned its probably not a great device for track work, just drags

Jez

[Bass Junky]

No, they both work almost identically.

The Bee-R cuts spark to earth, therefore all cylinders.

The Gizzmo cuts spark to each individual cylinder.

Both systems drop spark.

Both systems have the potential of fouling plugs, but it's not like you are sitting on the limiter for hours.