Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline R33 Series 2, Any Good?

alphabeatsco
 Share

Recommended Posts

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted
Id have a late model 33 over a 32 any day cause genuine K's are way lower and are generally in way better mechanical condition.

Hrmmm,

Thats quite a generality if you ask me... I judge each car on its individual merit, the engines in the 33/32 are very similar obviously so if they are looked after then either can be in good nick and likewise if not looked after, both can be heaps....

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted
Quite true, I was generalising a little.

Still I am bloody glad that I never ended up with a Commonodore :)

Haha, yeah very true, commowhores are just not in the same league, last time i was in one, when the driver selected reverse (it was an auto) the whole car shifts up ever so slightly then drops what feels like and inch or two...the engines in them cars is also soo unrefined, when pushed they sound like a mangy dog that is begging to be put down cause even he cant stand the sight or sound of himself....

CamGTS Contributor

CamGTS

Posted
Posted

Hmm are the R33 Skyline GTS25T any good? I've had my 1997 SII for 6.5 years, imported in early 2000 with 21,000km on the clock, besides a set of 18" Rims & K&N Panel filter its completely stock. Besides regular servicing and a clutch at about 95,000km, its now done 105,000km, I haven't had to spend a cent on it. Couldn't have hoped for a more reliable car that looks awesome (even after 6.5 years) and still out performs cars 3 times its worth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      No engine fan = quieter getrag ???

      By Butters · Posted

      Saw this video today from Adam LZ.    Long story short is he is claiming that the load from the engine fan once the fan clutch heats up(engaged) is increasing the getrag rattle(at idle) when you don't have a dual mass flywheel.  Before I go buying an electric fan setup .... Anyone heard of this ?    I must admit when my car is cold the getrag is pretty quiet and I do notice the rattle after it is all warmed up. I've always assumed this is due to the gearbox oil temp and tolerances of metal.       
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Yep it sure does.   Tone wheel lines up in the same spot perfectly.    
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
×
×
  • Create New...