Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea i was not really refering to the dynos more the weather conditions. water meth makes a great improvement for up here, you can squeze more timing safely with out the worry of pre det, plut extra fuel from methanol. what size rear did you get with that turbo? that's the usual choke point if the size was to small, you would notice a boost leak on your dyno graph depending on how bad it was. and its hard to be happy with out a goal, i guess the way to look at it as $$$$$$$$$$$= how fast do you want to go? then you reach that goal and start all over again cause your use to it and its slow again. i dont know how a top fuel driver could get through in life, imagine him driving his wifes toyota yarris!!!!!!!!!!!!! dear god come on it took like 5 mins to get to 100kmh! ha ha ha. still i must say you have a nice car, i see it all the time around town.

Thanks man.

Yeah I'm getting over the whole thing lol

Had set a target of about 270rwkw or so maybe 280

If it made it there. Was hoping to run e85 one day and just wind down the boost a touch so I was making roughly the same power with less boost. And have an agressive e85 tune to get me to 300rwkw and maybe a touch over even but yeah lol

Pro s is capable of everything I've mentioned, hence the disappointment In ending up with this version lol. Sydney tomorrow so car is the last thing on my mind :)

hay cal i had a look at your dyno chart today not bad at all made good tourqe in the end, a little lower than 260rwkw but still not bad. it will be fun for you at the next test and tune.

im usualy at adrenalin performance, so i had a look while i was there. yea it was not 720nm it was 680 ftlb, its not accurate but that roughly work out to be 920nm! hence not accurate.(it was a bid let down for me to stupid dyno) if you make that much nm wheelstands would be occuring! :thumbsup: its annoying to say at the least but generaly you nm output should be dam close to the flywheel hp of your motor, so 320 atw pluse roughly 20% for other losses = 384fly wheel hp so it should be doing around 390-400nm at flywheel. how come your putting new rims on your car arnt they 18's already?

Haha yeah couldn't remember the exact figure. But that's pretty decent.

Nah I have 19's ATM (buy them off me? There nice :))

Getting 18" Raiden (Lenso) D1R

Snapped a driveshaft not long ago and I'm pretty sure it's from the big wheels with the large rolling circumference. Think they are a bit heavy to, but damn there strong and they suit my car pretty well

yea dont think snapping a half shaft or drive shaft it from 19's you get less grip with the smaller side wall and also under throttle you tyres toe in so less rubber on the ground, if they run gtrs into the nines with stock half shafts and drive shaft pretty sure we would be hard out to break them, i still have stock driveline and never broken it once, but i do take it off every month and check it all. if i was to buy rims they would be 15's or 16's, mickey thompsons are so much cheaper in that sizes pluse less wieght in rim. are you going to this import meet at bj's tommorrow?

Gtrs run thicker half shafts, I've done some research lol.

Cause I thought the same thing, but turns out gtst ones are sligtly smaller but they still shouldn't break

My wheels may just be to heavy. All I know is it does grip lots

.dat file from latest tune? In Sydney right now, not home till Wednesday so I'll try and remember

any one looking for some side feed injectors? i got a set of jec's 550cc just been bech tested and cleaned that im chaning out if anyones interesed. going to 850cc top feeds. hit the limit of those 550's already.

New wheels turned up yesterday :)

54fa8e01.jpg

My Old ones are for sale now if anyone is interested. Chasing about $1500 (19 x 9.5 rear, 19 x 8.5 fronts)

More details if anyones interested

Heres a pic of them on the car:, photo was taken when I first got the old rims

DSC02273.jpg

What made you change your rims Cal i didn't mind the old ones, i just ordered a new set for the R32 today should have them next week, got a set of the Latest AME Tracer TM-02 19x9.5 +22 they are gonna be the show rims waiting for a quote back on some Advan Neova AD08 Tires 275/30R19 can't wait they are gonna be awesome.

ametracertm02dgm.jpg

modp_0911_05_onissan_r34_skyline_gtrpassenger_side_view.jpg

Main reason is tyres

I always wanted 18's but im fussy with wheels and after choosing about 3 different wheels that I liked only to find out they didnt come in the right offset in 18" etc then I finally settled on the 19's I just took off.

There a great rim, they look great and they are so tough, but every time something happens and I need to change wheels in a hurry, It costs me $600. I can get cheaper wheels sent up from down south but last 2 times ive had to change tyres its been urgent so had to source them locally. And I end up with Nankangs cause I cant afford anything better (Had a quote from one place for $700 EACH! for Yokohamas) And noone had the 19" tyre size in stock.

The new wheels are really growing on me, but I still think the old ones are a great wheel :)

I dont like those wheels on the black skyline there but should look good on a white 32 :) (Your not painting it a different colour right? haha)

Edited by 89CAL

Yeah i see where your coming from tires are freaking bullshit here in Australia, I've never seen them rims in the flesh before are they the D Project Ones, things always look different in a pic compared to real life. But Yeah not painting them AME wheels going for the panda look on the R32 Black and white is sexy gotta get the Enkei RPF1's powder coated black to match the new rims.

yeah they dont suit the black 34 but should look Good on a white car, How is the drag car going, will have to go check out the thread again, its been a while

The D1R's are quite nice for the price they are, Alot cheaper then the Koya Inox R1's that just came off it..... lol

Yeah the drag cars going ok, just gotta get it painted now then it's all done. Jason from HPI Magazine wants to be the cover car for one of his issues, so we are super happy bout that, can't wait for the finished product.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...